The Rhine Cycle Route. Mike Wells
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Название: The Rhine Cycle Route
Автор: Mike Wells
Издательство: Ingram
Жанр: Книги о Путешествиях
isbn: 9781783626311
isbn:
Two major geomorphic events shaped the Rhine basin. The Alps were formed approximately 30 million years ago, pushed up by the collision of the African and European tectonic plates. This caused rippling of the landmass to the north, creating successive ridges that form the limestone Jura (northern Switzerland) and combined Vosges (France)/Black Forest (Germany). Further north, pre-existing harder slate mountains (Hunsrück and Taunus) and volcanic remnants (Eifel, Siebengebirge and Westerwald) were raised further. The Rhine, flowing north from the Alps, was forced west by the barrier of the Black Forest, then turned north, cutting a wide valley between Vosges and the Black Forest (from modern-day Basel to Karlsruhe). Flowing slowly across the basin between the ridges (Karlsruhe to Mainz), the river deposited much of its sediment, creating an extensive flood plain. Upon reaching the Taunus, it turned west then north again, cutting a narrow gorge through the older, harder rocks between Taunus and Hunsrück (forming the Rhine Gorge from Bingen to Koblenz). Emerging from the mountains, the Rhine flows out onto the North German plain.
The second event was a period of repeated glaciation known as the ice ages, ending around 14,000 years ago. This had three effects upon the Rhine basin. In the Alps great glaciers formed, cutting deep, straight valleys from Oberalp to Chur and below Chur to Bodensee, where a lake formed at the end of the glacier. Further north, ice sheets covered the North German plain, which when they retreated left a flat landscape covered with glacial and wind-blown loess (sedimentary) deposits. Furthermore, when the ice sheets melted, the sea rose, leaving the western end of the plain (modern-day Netherlands) below sea level.
Wildlife
While several small mammals (including rabbits, hares, red squirrels, voles, water rats and weasels) may be seen scuttling across the track and deer may be glimpsed in forests, this is not a route for observing animals. However, there is a wide range of interesting birdlife. White swans, geese and many varieties of ducks inhabit the river and its banks. Cruising above, raptors, particularly buzzards and kites, are frequently seen hunting small mammals. Birds that live by fishing include cormorants, noticeable when perched on rocks with their wings spread out to dry and grey herons. Common all along the Rhine, and particularly numerous in the Netherlands, herons can be seen standing in shallow water waiting to strike or stalking purposefully along the banks.
Storks’ nest in Willige Langerak (Stage 25)
Perhaps the most noticeable birds are white storks. These huge birds, with wingspan of two metres, nest in trees or on man-made platforms. They feed on small mammals and reptiles, which they catch in water meadows or on short grassland. Populations along the Rhine dropped to unsustainable levels by the 1980s, but conservation programmes in France, Germany and the Netherlands have led to significant growth in numbers and white storks are no longer regarded as a threatened species.
Preparation
When to go
Apart from the higher parts of Stage 1, where snow often lingers on the ground until May and fresh snow can fall at any time, the route is generally cyclable from April to October. Indeed, much of the route can be cycled at any time of year. The river is at its highest in winter, after heavy snowfalls, when snow melt coming down from the Alps can cause localised flooding of the route in a few places where it drops down below the flood dyke.
During July and August (the school holiday season) some of the more touristic stages can become very busy, particularly stages 5 and 6 around Bodensee and stages 16 and 17 through the Rhine Gorge. Although these stages have many places to stay, it is sometimes difficult to find accommodation, especially at weekends.
How long will it take?
The route has been broken into 27 stages averaging 51km per stage. Cycling 100km per day would enable you to complete the route in two weeks. Allowing time for sightseeing and averaging 80km per day would stretch this time to 17 days. At a leisurely pace of one stage (50km) per day, it would take four weeks to complete the ride. On most stages, there are many places to stay and it is easy to tailor daily distances to your requirements.
What kind of cycle is suitable?
While most of the route is on surfaced cycle tracks or roads (usually asphalt, but some concrete and in northern Germany and the Netherlands long stretches of brick-block), there are some stretches of all-weather dirt, cinder or gravel track. As a result, this is not a route for narrow-tyred racing cycles. The ideal cycle is a hybrid (a lightweight but strong cross between a touring cycle and a mountain bike with at least 21 gears), although apart from Disentis/Mustér to Ilanz (Stage 1) a touring cycle would be quite suitable (an alternative route along local roads can be used between Disentis/Mustér and Ilanz to avoid the rough gravel tracks). Front suspension is beneficial as it absorbs much of the vibration. Straight handlebars, with bar-ends enabling you to vary your position regularly, are recommended. Make sure your cycle is serviced and lubricated before you start, particularly the brakes, gears and chain.
As important as the cycle is your choice of tyres. Slick road tyres are not suitable and knobbly mountain bike tyres not necessary. What you need is something in-between with good tread and a slightly wider profile than you would use for everyday cycling at home. To reduce the chance of punctures, choose tyres with puncture resistant armouring, such as a Kevlar™ band.
Bad Säckingen has the longest covered bridge over the Rhine (Stage 8)
Getting there and back
By rail
The start of the route at Oberalppass station is served by hourly MGB narrow gauge trains between Andermatt and Disentis/Mustér. The most convenient approach is via Andermatt, which can be reached by hourly SBB (Swiss Railways) services from Basel or Zürich, changing at Göschenen. Most trains on these routes (except CIS) have cycle space. Swiss trains do not require seat reservations, although cycle reservation is mandatory (for a fee of CHF5) on ICN intercity trains which operate about 50 per cent of the services between Basel or Zürich and Milan via Göschenen. In Switzerland a ticket is required for your cycle. This costs CHF18 (or the same price as a passenger ticket if this is lower) and covers all journeys within a day. Tickets can be purchased and reservations made at www.sbb.ch.
If travelling from the UK, you can take your cycle on Eurostar from London St Pancras (not Ebbsfleet nor Ashford) to Paris (Gare du Nord) or Brussels (Midi). Trains between London and Paris run approximately hourly throughout the day, taking under two and a half hours. Cycles booked in advance travel in dedicated cycle spaces in the baggage compartment of the same train as you. Bookings, which open six months in advance and cost £30 single, can be made through Eurostar baggage (tel 0844 822 5822). Cycles must be checked in at St Pancras Eurostar luggage office (beside the bus drop-off point at the back of the station) at least one hour before departure. There are two dedicated places per train for fully assembled cycles and four more places for dis-assembled cycles packed in a special fibre-glass box. These boxes are provided by Eurostar at the despatch counter, along with tools and packing advice. Leave yourself plenty of time to dismantle and pack your bike. In Paris, cycles can be collected from the Geoparts luggage office at Gare du Nord by following a path L of platform 3. More information can be found at www.eurostar.com.
GARE DU NORD TO GARE DE LYON
After arriving in Paris you need to cycle from the Gare du Nord to Gare de Lyon following a series of grands boulevards (wide avenues) on an almost straight 4km route. Go ahead opposite the main entrance to Gare du Nord along semi-pedestrianised СКАЧАТЬ