Walking in Cyprus. Nike Werstroh

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      The Profitis Elias chapel among the vineyards near Pano Panagia (Walk 7)

      Due to its location, the island played a significant role in trading from around 3000BC and through the medieval centuries. It has belonged to different empires in its eventful past, with numerous artefacts and remains of ancient buildings around the island attesting to its diverse culture and troubled history. However, unlike other Mediterranean islands, it is not only the distant past that has left its legacy: after the island gained independence in 1960, tensions between the Greek and Turkish Cypriot communities grew, resulting in an eventual coup by the Greek Cypriots and an invasion by Turkey. The UN-controlled buffer zone (known as the ‘Green Line’) that runs like a long scar across the island, dividing its inhabitants, demonstrates that the recent past is still affecting the lives of many in Cyprus. This, as well as the island’s earlier history, is described further in ‘Brief history’.

      However, while Cyprus may be politically divided, the amazing scenery can be enjoyed on both sides of the island regardless of political views. Cypriots – whether they speak Greek or Turkish, attend church or mosque – greet visitors with a friendly welcome on both sides of the Green Line.

Location and geography

      Cyprus, surrounded by three continents, lies in the north eastern corner of the Mediterranean Sea. It is only 74km south of Turkey, about 100km from Syria and approximately 800km from mainland Greece. The island is 240km long and 100km wide at its widest point. It is the third largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, from which it rose millions of years ago.

      The foundation rocks of Cyprus were once part of the oceanic crust of the Tethys Ocean and as such weren’t connected to any continental plate. In the late Miocene period, the African Plate levered the floor of the Tethys Ocean, causing Cyprus to emerge. The Troodos mountains were once part of the ocean bed and today they form the best-preserved example of ocean floor on the Earth’s surface. Here geologists can study the prehistoric sea floor.

      Cyprus’s two mountain ranges – the Troodos and the Kyrenia mountains – dominate its landscape. Troodos, located in the middle of the island, is mainly formed of igneous rock with its lower slopes covered by chalk. The Kyrenia, running across nearly the entire northern part of the island, consists of limestone and marble. About two million years ago the Kyrenia and Troodos mountains were islands; the land was constantly rising and the area between the two mountain ranges became the Mesaoria Plain.

Plants and flowers

      There are approximately 1800 identified plant species on the island, of which around 140 are endemic. Some of the endemic plants’ habitats are restricted to specific areas such as the Troodos mountains or the Akamas Peninsula.

      Calabrian pine (Pinus brutia) forest, which thrives from sea level to an altitude of 1400m, covers the slopes of the Troodos and Kyrenia mountains and part of the Akamas Peninsula.

      In Troodos the golden oak (Quercus alnifolia) appears at around 700m and the black pine (Pinus nigra) grows at higher altitudes. The Cyprus cedar (Cedrus brevifolia) can only be found in the Paphos Forest – especially around Trypilos Mountain. Cypress, juniper, alder and plane trees are quite common on the island.

      The carob tree (Ceratonia siliqua) is typical to the Mediterranean region and has been used in many different ways since ancient times. It can be found growing in the wild but is widely cultivated for its edible pods. The word ‘carat’ – the unit used to measure the purity of gold – is derived from the Greek word keration as the pods’ small seeds were used to measure gold in ancient times.

      Colourful wildflowers begin to bloom from late February and the meadows can be carpeted with flowers well into May. Walking is the best way to observe the flowers, and even without specialist knowledge you can admire the extensive colours. Rock roses – their colours ranging from white and yellow to pink – often cover the hillsides.

      The Kyrenia mountains are home to many wildflowers, including orchids. The greatest number of wild orchids appear in March and April. More than 30 species of orchid can be found in Cyprus, in places ranging from shady forest floors to rocky hillsides. The Cyprus bee orchid and the Lapithos bee orchid are endemic.