Trekking in Mallorca. Paddy Dillon

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СКАЧАТЬ organised on arrival. Packed lunches may also be available. There will be ‘rules’ that need to be observed, so that everyone enjoys a pleasant stay. The provision of refugis along the GR221 is as follows:

       La Trapa – construction has been stalled for some time

       Ses Fontanelles – privately owned, near Km104 on the Ma-10

       Sa Coma d’en Vidal – a Consell property for groups only

       Son Trias – privately owned, at Esporles

       Can Boi – a Consell property at Deià

       Muleta – a Consell property near Port de Sóller

       Tossals Verds – a remote Consell property

       Castell d’Alaró – a pilgrim hostatgeria on Puig d’Alaró

       Pont Romà – operated on behalf of the Consell at Pollença

       Puig de Maria – a pilgrim hostatgeria above Pollença

      Camping

      There is only one campsite on the GR221, which is at Lluc. It is modern and replaces a site that was very run-down. Trying to use the campsite as a base for tackling the GR221 simply won’t work effectively. It is increasingly common to notice many trekkers carrying full backpacking gear along the trail. Evidently, they are quietly establishing unobtrusive wild camps along the way. If considering this approach, bear in mind that it is illegal, so you must be very discreet and leave no evidence of overnight stops. The level platforms of old sitges among dense holm oak woods are popular among wild campers!

Language

      There are two official languages in Mallorca: Castilian Spanish and Catalan. Catalan is spoken from Andorra to València, as well as on the Balearic Islands. Mallorquí is a dialect of Catalan and includes words of French and Arabic origin. No-one expects visitors to learn Catalan, let alone Mallorquí, and any Spanish you learn will be readily understood. Many people in the main resorts and large hotels speak English, German and other languages, but this may not be the case in small villages and in the countryside.

      Catalan in its written form may be understood by anyone with a knowledge of Spanish, but the spoken language is another matter. Between themselves, most islanders speak Mallorquí, so conversations on buses and in bars and shops may be incomprehensible to visitors. However, if you speak a little Spanish you will find that people are delighted and will help you all they can, and even more so if you attempt to converse in Catalan. It is well worth taking the trouble to learn a few words and phrases so as to be able to pass the time of day with local people.

      Placenames

      Most places in Mallorca had two names in the past, Spanish and Mallorquí. Since Mallorquí was given equal status with Spanish, almost all Spanish placenames have vanished from signposts and street signs. In fact, only in a few tourist resorts are there any Spanish signs to be seen, and Mallorquí may be the only language in evidence in rural areas.

      Confusion is likely to arise if you use old maps and guidebooks, which generally show only Spanish placenames. Spanish IGN maps have mostly switched to Mallorquí placenames, and the popular Editorial Alpina maps use only Mallorquí placenames. As a rule, many placenames look similar, regardless of whether they are in Spanish or Mallorquí, but some hotels and businesses insist on using Spanish forms for their addresses. For visitors, this could be confusing if your hotel is listed as being in Puerto Sóller or Pollensa, but the only road signs you see are for Port de Sóller or Pollença!

      See Appendix B for basic phrases and useful words in English, Spanish and Catalan, along with a topographical glossary for use when interpreting placenames on maps.

Money

      The Euro is the currency of Mallorca. Large denomination Euro notes are difficult to use for small purchases, so avoid the €500 and €200 notes altogether, and avoid the €100 notes if you can. The rest are fine: €50, €20, €10 and €5. Coins come in €2 and €1. Small denomination coins come in values of 50c, 20c, 10c, 5c, 2c and 1c. Bus drivers will appreciate the correct change and will frown on large notes.

      Banks and ATMs are mentioned in route descriptions if further supplies of cash are needed. Many accommodation providers will accept major credit and debit cards, as will large supermarkets, but small bars, shops and cafés deal only in cash.

      Some insurance policies may class a walk along the GR221 as a hazardous pursuit, in which case you may not be covered. Others, such as that provided by the BMC, www.thebmc.co.uk/insurance, would class it as an ordinary walk.

Food and drink

      All the towns and villages along the GR221 offer the opportunity to buy food and drink. In some places there may only be one or two shops selling food, but there will always be a bar restaurant, and there are often opportunities to sample local fare. There are occasional roadside bar restaurants, but read ahead to be sure where the next shops, bars and restaurants are located. If there is a significant gap in services, be sure to stock up appropriately in advance. Shops generally open from 0900–1300 and 1600–2000. Long lunch hours are common, but some open all day, while some close on Saturday afternoons, and some may not open at all on Sundays.

      Mallorquín cuisine, or cuina Mallorquina, can differ from that of Catalonia on the mainland. Fish dishes are a speciality and so are tapas, served with drinks in many bars. They are usually behind glass on the counter, so you can point to the ones you want. Small or large helpings are offered and a large one can make a substantial meal.

      Meals in hotels may involve table service or a self-service buffet with an excellent selection. Meals in refugis are usually wholesome, filling, local specialities. See Appendix B for translations of many types of local specialities that may appear on menus.

      The dining room at the remote Refugi de Tossals Verds (Stage 8)

Water

      Ordinary tap water is fine for drinking, and bottled water is on sale everywhere. Very little running water is available in the limestone mountains. However, the word ‘font’ on maps indicates a spring. Sometimes, these will flow copiously and provide excellent drinking water. Others might be stagnant, and unsuitable for drinking without treating. Others may be dry most of the time, or have been piped away at source. Play safe and carry plenty of water.

Walking the GR221

      Walking from south-west to north-east works well with the prevailing weather and there is less likelihood of squinting into the sun. At the time of writing, the early stages of the GR221 were neither signposted nor waymarked, with agreements yet to be concluded with landowners. Most of these routes are already in regular use by walkers and access doesn’t appear to be a problem. The greater part of the route and its alternatives are very well signposted and waymarked, proving very popular with trekkers.

      Most of the GR221 has been signposted and waymarked, with amazing precision in some places!

      The Consell de Mallorca breaks the route into eight stages, but this guidebook presents the main route in 10 daily stages, with a further three alternative starting points and three alternative finishing points. The main СКАЧАТЬ