Название: The Loire Cycle Route
Автор: Mike Wells
Издательство: Ingram
Жанр: Книги о Путешествиях
isbn: 9781783624898
isbn:
There are a number of general touring guides to the Loire, including those from Michelin Green Guides (Château of the Loire) and Dorling Kindersley Eyewitness Travel (Loire Valley).
Most of these maps and guidebooks are available from leading bookshops including Stanfords, London and The Map Shop, Upton-upon-Severn. Relevant maps are widely available en route.
Accommodation
Hotels, guest houses and bed & breakfast
For most of the route there is a wide variety of accommodation. The stage descriptions identify places known to have accommodation, but they are not exhaustive. Hotels vary from expensive five-star properties to modest local establishments and usually offer a full meal service. Guest houses and bed & breakfast accommodation, known as chambres d’hôte in French, generally offer only breakfast. Tourist information offices will often telephone for you and make local reservations. After hours, some tourist offices display a sign outside showing local establishments with vacancies. Booking ahead is seldom necessary, except on popular stages in high season, although it is advisable to start looking for accommodation after 1600. Most properties are cycle-friendly and will find you a secure overnight place for your pride and joy. Accueil Vélo (cyclists welcome) is a national quality mark displayed by establishments within 5km of the route that welcome cyclists and provide facilities including overnight cycle storage.
Prices for accommodation in France are similar to, or slightly cheaper than, prices in the UK.
Many hotels and guest houses display Cyclists Welcome signs
Youth hostels and gîtes d’étape
There are five official youth hostels on or near the route and these are listed in Appendix D. In addition there are independent backpackers’ hostels in some of the larger towns and cities. To use an official youth hostel you need to be a member of an association affiliated to Hostelling International (YHA in England, SYHA in Scotland). Unlike British hostels, most European hostels do not have self-catering facilities but do provide good value hot meals. Hostels get very busy, particularly during school holidays, and booking is advised through www.hihostels.com. Details of independent hostels can be found at www.hostelbookers.com
Gîtes d’étape are hostels and rural refuges in France, mainly for walkers. They are mostly found in mountain areas, although there are some along the Loire Valley, particularly in Ardèche. Full details of all French gîtes d’étape can be found at www.gites-refuges.com. Do not confuse these with Gîtes de France, which are rural properties rented as weekly holiday homes.
Most accommodation has secure storage for cycles, like this cycle garage in Gien (Stage 14)
Camping
If you are prepared to carry all the necessary equipment, camping is the cheapest way of cycling the Loire. The stage descriptions identify many official campsites but these are not exhaustive. Camping may be possible in other locations with the permission of local landowners.
Food and drink
Where to eat
There are thousands of places where cyclists can eat and drink, varying from snack bars, crêperies and local inns to Michelin-starred restaurants. Locations of many places to eat are listed in stage descriptions, but these are by no means exhaustive. Days and times of opening vary. When planning your day, try to be flexible, as some inns and small restaurants do not open at lunchtime. An auberge is a local inn offering food and drink. English-language menus may be available in big cities and tourist areas, but are less common in smaller towns and rural locations.
When to eat
Breakfast (petit déjeuner) is usually continental: breads, jam and a hot drink. Traditionally lunch (déjeuner) was the main meal of the day, although this is slowly changing, and is unlikely to prove suitable if you plan an afternoon in the saddle. Most restaurants offer a menu du jour at lunchtime; a three-course set meal that usually offers very good value for money. It is often hard to find light meals/snacks in bars or restaurants, and if you want a light lunch you may need to purchase items such as sandwiches, quiche Lorraine or croque-monsieur (toasted ham and cheese sandwich) from a bakery.
For dinner (dîner) a wide variety of cuisine is available. Much of what is available is pan-European and will be easily recognisable. There are, however, national and regional dishes you may wish to try. Historically, French restaurants offered only fixed-price set menus with two, three or more courses. This is slowly changing and most restaurants nowadays offer both fixed-price and à la carte menus.
What to eat
France is widely regarded as a place where the preparation and presentation of food is central to the country’s culture. Modern-day French cuisine was first codified by Georges Escoffier in Le Guide Culinaire (1903). Central to Escoffier’s method was the use of light sauces made from stocks and broths to enhance the flavour of the dish in place of heavy sauces that had previously been used to mask the taste of bad meat. French cooking was further refined in the 1960s with the arrival of nouvelle cuisine, which sought to simplify techniques, lessen cooking time and preserve natural flavours by changing cooking methods.
By contrast, traditional cooking of the Auvergne is rustic fare, mostly combining cheaper cuts of pork with potatoes and basic vegetables, including soupe aux chou (cabbage, pork and potato soup), potée Auvergnate (hotpot of pork, potatoes and vegetables) and truffade (cheese, garlic and potato pancake). The crisp mountain air of the higher parts of the Auvergne is perfect for drying hams and sausages. One particular speciality is lentilles vertes, green lentils from Le Puy-en-Velay used in soup or served with duck, goose or sausage dishes. Local cheeses include bleu d’Auvergne, Cantal and St Nectaire, while tarte aux myrtilles is a traditional dessert made with bilberries from the mountains.
Burgundy in central France is famous not only for its eponymous red wine but also for beef from Charolais cattle, poultry from Bourg-en-Bresse, mustard from Dijon and cheese made with the milk from Salers cattle. This is reflected in regional cuisine, particularly bœuf Bourguignon (beef slow-cooked in red wine) and coq au vin (chicken casseroled in red wine). Other specialities include escargots à la Bourgogne (snails in garlic and parsley butter) and lapin à la moutarde (rabbit in mustard sauce).
Creamy coloured Charolais cattle graze the Charolais hills (Stage 9)
The food of Pays de la Loire is more elegant, reflecting perhaps the regal history of the region. Freshwater fish (including pike, carp and salmon), often served with beurre blanc (white wine and butter sauce), is plentiful inland, while sea fish and shellfish, particularly oysters, abound near the Atlantic. Châteaubriand steak (a thick cut from the tenderloin filet) is named after a small village. Other meat dishes include rillauds d’Anjou (fried pork belly) and muscatel sausages. Caves in riverside cliffs are widely used to cultivate mushrooms, which appear in many dishes. Desserts include gâteau СКАЧАТЬ