101 Hikes in Southern California. Jerry Schad

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СКАЧАТЬ get up early to catch the rare negative tides. Consult tide tables to find out exactly when.

      To Reach the Trailhead: From the Pacific Coast Highway (Highway 1) on Malibu’s west side, 0.4 mile west of mile marker 001 LA 54.5, turn south onto Westward Beach Road. Drive down Westward Beach Road to the road’s end at Westward Beach (which is open daylight hours and charges a parking fee). Alternatively, you may park for free along the roadside before reaching the pay station, and then stroll 0.7 mile southeast along the beach to Point Dume.

      Description: Starting out at Westward Beach, you have a choice between two routes: over the top of the point or around the end of the point at sea level. The shorter, much easier route (and the only practical alternative during all but extremely low tides) is the first one, the trail slanting left up the cliff. On top is an area popular for sighting gray whales during their southward migration in winter and a state historic monument. Point Dume, you’ll learn, was christened by British naval commander George Vancouver, who sailed by in 1793.

      As you stand on Point Dume’s apex, note the marked contrast between the lighter sedimentary rock exposed on the cliff faces both east and west and the darker volcanic rock just below. This unusually tough mass of volcanic rock has thus far resisted the onslaught of the ocean swells. After you descend from the apex, some metal stairs will take you down to crescent-shaped Dume Cove.

      The alternate route is for skilled climbers only (and definitely inappropriate for small children). During the very lowest tides, you round the point itself, making your way by hand-and-toe climbing in a couple of spots over huge, angular shards of volcanic rock along the base of the cliffs. The tidepools here and to the east along Dume Cove’s shoreline have some of the best displays of intertidal marine life in Southern California. This visual feast will remain for others to enjoy if you refrain from taking or disturbing in any way the organisms that live there. (Warning: Exploring the lower intertidal zones can be hazardous. Be very cautious when traveling over slippery rocks, and always be aware of the incoming swells. Don’t let a rogue wave catch you by surprise.)

      The going is easy once you’re on Dume Cove’s ribbon of sand. Signs posted here warn against nude bathing and sunning. This was once a popular nude beach, much to the chagrin of some of those living in the cliffside mansions overlooking the area. You may see the Zeus, a sailboat shipwrecked at the cove, partially buried beneath the sands.

      When you reach the northeast end of Dume Cove, swing left around a lesser point and continue another mile over a somewhat wider beach to Paradise Cove, site of an elegant beachside restaurant, private pier, and parking lot (the public is welcome for a hefty parking fee unless they spend at least $20 at the restaurant). If you’ve parked a bicycle or second car here, then your hike ends here. Otherwise you can return the way you came or wend your way along the residential streets of Point Dume to return to Westward Beach.

      HIKE 9

      Solstice Canyon Park

      Location: Santa Monica Mountains (Malibu)

      Highlights: Superb oak woodland and lessons in fire ecology

      Distance: 2.4 miles (out-and-back)

      Total Elevation Gain/Loss: 350'/350'

      Hiking Time: 1½ hours

      Optional Maps: Trails Illustrated Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area or USGS 7.5-minute Malibu Beach and Point Dume

      Best Times: All year

      Agency: SMMNRA

      Difficulty: Easy

      Trail Use: Dogs allowed, good for kids

      The easy-going but scenic Solstice Canyon Trail takes you through the grounds of the former Robert’s Ranch—now Solstice Canyon Park, a site administered by the National Park Service. The canyon once hosted a private zoo where giraffes, camels, deer, and exotic birds roamed. At trail’s end you come to Tropical Terrace, the site of an architecturally noted grand home that burned in a 1982 wildfire.

      Live oak in Solstice Canyon

      To Reach the Trailhead: From Highway 1 in Malibu 0.3 mile west of mile marker 001 LA 50.0, turn north onto Corral Canyon Road. In 0.2 mile, turn left into the park. There’s overflow parking space for several cars at the entrance, and a more spacious lot 0.3 mile farther inside at the main trailhead. Parking is free. Carpooling is encouraged since parking space is limited. Posted park hours are 8 a.m.–s unset. The trail description begins from the inside parking lot.

      Description: Starting at the main trailhead, pass through a gate and continue upstream alongside the canyon’s melodious creek. The path is paved for much of the way. You travel through a fantastic woodland of alder, sycamore, bay, and live oak—the latter with trunks up to 18 feet in circumference. In 0.7 mile, you pass an 1865 stone cottage on the right—thought to be the oldest existing stone building in Malibu.

      At 1.2 miles, you arrive at the remains of Tropical Terrace. In a setting of palms and giant birds-of-paradise, curved flagstone steps sweep toward the roofless remains of what was for 26 years one of Malibu’s grand homes. Beyond the house, crumbling stone steps and pathways lead to what used to be elaborately decorated rock grottoes, as well as a waterfall on Solstice Canyon’s creek. Hidden among the Tropical Terrace ruins are the remains of a concrete bomb shelter. For all its perfectly natural setting, Tropical Terrace’s destiny was that of a temporary paradise, wiped out by both fire and flood.

      The steep and rugged Sostomo Trail continues up the canyon, eventually joining the Deer Valley Loop for those who want a longer trip. A beautiful but strenuous option for a loop hike is to return via the Rising Sun Trail, which adds 500 feet of climbing onto the canyon wall but offers fantastic coastline views stretching from the Palos Verdes Peninsula to Point Dume. Otherwise, you can turn around at Tropical Terrace and start an easy, gentle descent back to the trailhead.

      Back at the trailhead parking lot you may want to check out the Dry Creek Trail, which goes northeast up an oak-shaded ravine for about 0.6 mile before entering private property. An outrageously cantilevered “Darth Vader” house overlooks the ravine as well as a 150-foot-high precipice that infrequently becomes a spectacular waterfall.

      Tropical Terrace ruins in Solstice Canyon

      HIKE 10

      Temescal Canyon

      Location: Santa Monica Mountains (Pacific Palisades)

      Highlights: Pseudoaerial coastline views and shady riparian and oak woodland

      Distance: 2.8 miles (loop)

      Total Elevation Gain/Loss: 850'/850'

      Hiking Time: 1½ hours

      Optional Maps: Trails Illustrated Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area or USGS 7.5-minute Topanga

      Best Times: All year

      Agency: СКАЧАТЬ