The Isle of Mull. Terry Marsh

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      The easiest of starts sets off from the forest car park, heading along a broad trail with mature trees on the left and an open, hillocky prospect on the right decorated with ling and bell heather. After about 800m, the track begins to descend gently, and ahead you can pick out the profile of Ben Hiant on the Ardnamurchan peninsula.

      The on-going trail leads through a large cleared area with fine seaward views to South Uist and Barra in the Outer Hebrides skimming low and blue along the far horizon.

      At NM 476 573, the track divides. Here bear right, following a route waymarked with red-banded poles. After a brief, gentle rise, the track begins a long and steady descent towards Ardmore. When the trail again divides, at NM 475 577, keep forward past a small quarry, still following the waymarked trail, now much less substantial. Although not immediately obvious, there are the remains of village buildings on either side of the narrowing track; one is thought to have been the schoolhouse, which may once have resounded to the cacophony of young voices.

      The path curls downwards to cross the Allt na Criche on stepping stones that can sometimes be submerged, necessitating one giant leap for mankind, or a little paddling. Beyond, you re-enter plantation, among which more ruins of Ardmore appear; today, these are coated with ferns, mainly spleenwort, a poignantly attractive sight.