The GR10 Trail. Brian Johnson

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      The old ‘casino’ in Hendaye-Plage

      Head S down the Boulevard du Général Leclerc and, at a large roundabout, veer right down Rue des Citronniers to reach la Baie de Chingoudy. Turn left along the promenade, passing two sets of toilets and a waterpoint by a play area, to reach the Stade Bixente Lizarazu football ground. Veer left round the far end of the pitch, pass another waterpoint and go under the bridge to a roundabout. Keep straight on along a passage between flats and veer left up a minor road and along a footpath to another roundabout. Keep straight on up the Chemin de Biaténia which merges with the Boulevard de l’Emperor (30min). Turn right here if you need the large Intermarché supermarket (15min), which sells original and easy-clic camping gas.

      Turn left for the GR10 and fork right up Rue Errondenia. At the top of the road turn right up the Rue de Pausoa and out of town. At the top of the hill turn left down a track, soon forking right and right again for your first wild camping opportunity (50min). Fork left to the top of Migeltxoenborda (132m) and veer left down to the D810 road (formerly N10). Turn left along the road and, after 100m, fork right down a track which soon becomes a path. At a junction, fork right along a track which becomes a small tarmac road. Then it’s left at a junction, fork right at the top of a hill, straight on at the next junction, sharp left, left again and next right to reach a tunnel which takes you under the A63 motorway. Ignore a sharp left turn and some tarmac drives to reach a junction at the top of the hill (1hr 40min).

      Turn right if you want to visit the hamlet of Biriatou. There is a waterpoint in the hotel car park and public toilets with waterpoint near the auberge, below the church. If you visit Biriatou you can rejoin the G10 by following the signs rather than returning to the junction.

      Turn left for the GR10, then fork right, turn left, fork right and climb. As the gradient eases, fork right and immediately left up a track (1hr 50min). Right and left forks bring you under powerlines. In bad weather the old GR10 route is preferable following the track traversing S to a 4-way junction. Take the right-hand of the two left turns and climb to rejoin the GR10 at Col de Poiriers (Pitara).

      The GR10 goes left and immediately right to follow a path, which climbs to the right of the powerlines before reaching a viewpoint, with picnic table, under the powerlines at the foot of the rocky NW ridge of Xoldokogaina. After crossing the ridge fork right, right again and then turn right to regain the ridge above the crags. Follow the path easily up to the monument on the summit of Xoldokogaina (2hr 55min, 486m).

      Descend roughly S to the Col d’Osin, veering left along a better track to the Col des Poiriers, which has good dry campsites and an ancient tumulus (3hr 15min, 316m). Follow the path, roughly SE, which climbs into the forest and reaches Col des Joncs (419m). Veer left up the ridge, fork right then turn sharp left back onto the ridge and turn right up the ridge.

      The remains of an old hill fort, Redoute de la Baïonette, are worth visiting in good weather. They are reached by taking a sharp right turn onto the ridge and then following a good path northeast to the summit of Mandale. The remains are found at borderstone 9. After borderstone 10 veer slightly left to rejoin the GR10 for the descent to the Col d’Ibardin.