Walking in Austria. Kev Reynolds

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      The Zillertalbahn between Jenbach and Mayrhofen is one of several private railways useful to walkers

      The rail network operated by Austrian Federal Railways (Österreichische Bundesbahnen (ÖBB) www.oebb.at) serves the majority of towns, and their trains are clean and punctual. The Regionalzug service stops at every station and as a consequence is slow, while Eurocity international express (EC), or the Austrian Intercity express (IC) trains are the fastest. There are also several privately operated railways such as the Zillertalbahn (Jenbach to Mayrhofen) and Graz-Köflacherbahn (Graz to Köflach). Train times are clearly displayed at all stations. For departures study the yellow posters (headed Abfahrt), while the white posters give arrival times (Ankunft).

      The efficient postbus service (www.postbus.at), together with the bahnbus operated by the ÖBB and departing from railway stations, visits most inhabited valleys not served by train. These are of immense importance, not only to visiting walkers but to outlying communities. Local bus timetables (Fahrpläne) are usually fixed to bus stops (Haltestelle) or displayed outside post offices. They are also often available from tourist information offices.

Accommodation

      There should be no shortage of accommodation in any of the areas covered by this guide, for with some justification Austria prides itself on its tourist infrastructure, and almost every town and village offers a choice of hotels, pensionen, gasthöfe, gästehaus and private rooms (privatzimmer) at mostly affordable prices. Enquire at the local tourist office for their accommodation list. Some of the larger resorts also have accommodation boards fitted outside their tourist office, and many have campsites in the vicinity.

      Camping

      As a general rule, campsites are clean and well-managed, with immaculate washrooms and good showers. Many have laundry facilities, small shops and restaurants attached. Sites are usually open between May and September, with seasonal variations in price.

      Hotels

      Hotels and pensionen are star-graded; one star being the most basic, leading to extravagant five-star luxury. Budget accommodation usually remains in the one- or two-star categories, with a considerable difference in price rising thereafter. But a two-star room will often have modest en-suite facilities and include a standard continental breakfast. Note that a hotel-garni provides no meals other than breakfast.

      A pension is a bed-and-breakfast hotel (also known as hotel-garni). Though often fairly small and family-run, when located in towns and cities, pensionen may occupy a section of a large apartment block or other building. Most of those in mountain villages tend to be in attractive, traditional houses.

      Gasthof and Gästehaus

      In practical terms a gasthof is a hotel in everything but name, while a gästehaus often denotes a small bed-and-breakfast hotel. A gasthaus, on the other hand, is a restaurant, although some also offer rooms, in which case look for the words ‘mit Unterkunft’.

      Private Rooms

      Renting a room in a private house is a favoured holiday option. These privat zimmer can vary greatly, with facilities ranging from a basic bedroom with shared bathroom, and breakfast left on a tray outside your room, to hotel-standard accommodation. Most rooms are let on a bed-and-breakfast basis, but it is advisable to check first – tourist offices usually have details. Look for houses displaying the Zimmer frei notice.

      Mountain Huts

      No alpine country has a greater number or variety of mountain huts than Austria, with a network of at least 1000 hütten built in the most idyllic of locations. Of these more than half are owned and run by member groups of the Austrian and German Alpine Clubs (Österreichischer and Deutscher Alpenverein – ÖAV/DAV), the others being either privately owned or belonging to separate organisations. All are listed in what is often termed ‘the green book’ – Alpenvereinshütten Band 1: Ostalpen published by Rother, and available from the Austrian Alpine Club (see below).

      The Bremer Hut, one of more than a thousand built in the Austrian Alps

      Staffed from at least July to the end of September, but often with an open period which extends either side of the high summer period, accommodation on offer ranges from large mixed-sex communal dormitories (matratzenlager) to two- or four-bedded rooms suitable for couples or families. Sheet sleeping bags are obligatory, so take your own. Separate-sex washrooms with showers are the norm, although some of the older and more remote huts are still rather basic in their amenities. However, despite the name, most of Austria’s huts resemble mountain inns rather than the simple refuges of old. Wardens provide refreshments, snacks, meals and drinks (coffee, tea, hot chocolate, lemonade, beer and wine), with a choice of evening meals sometimes matching in variety the menus of local valley restaurants. (See Appendix C for a translation of menu items.) In ÖAV and DAV huts, the evening menu usually includes a Bergsteigeressen (literally, the mountaineer’s meal – available only to Alpenverein members). Low-cost and high in calories, for the hungry walker prepared to take ‘pot luck’ the Bergsteigeressen offers very good value. Since most of the income for self-employed hut wardens is derived from the sale of food and drinks (the overnight fee goes to the club owning the hut), it follows that all users ought to make some purchases. Self-catering facilities are not provided, other than in bivouac huts and winter rooms.

      Walking group near Grieralm in the Tuxertal (Zillertal Alps, Route 33)

      Many walks in this guide choose a mountain hut as their destination, for the majority are not only situated among exciting landscapes, but have refreshments available on arrival. Multi-day hut-to-hut tours, of which several are included in this book, are an Austrian speciality worth tackling.

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