The Cotswold Way. Kev Reynolds

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СКАЧАТЬ unpredictability of British weather can make planning an end-to-end walk along the Cotswold Way a hit-or-miss affair, with rain and strong winds taking no account of the season. However, Spring (April to June) provides lengthening hours of daylight, usually less rainfall than in other seasons, and an abundance of wild flowers. Apart from the period during late April/May when the 3-day Badminton Horse Trials take place, overnight accommodation should not be too difficult to arrange.

      Summer (July to August) tends to be the most popular time to walk in the Cotswolds when daily temperatures are often in the low-to-mid 20s, although on average the highest rainfall is experienced in July. Towns and villages throughout the region can be besieged by visitors who increase the difficulties of finding single-night accommodation along the route of the Cotswold Way.

      September heralds the oncoming Autumn – a perfect time to tackle a long-distance walk. Daytime temperatures are still mild-to-warm then, while in October the first frosts of the coming winter may be expected. These provide an opportunity to celebrate the beauty of the beech woods turning yellow and gold.

      Winter stretches from November until late March: a challenging time to set out on an end-to-end walk, although for anyone living within easy distance of the Cotswolds, it is possible to take advantage of occasional days of mild weather to walk individual sections. But with shortened daylight hours and a fair chance of wild weather, only the keenest of walkers will attempt the whole route from Chipping Campden to Bath during wintertime. Those who do should bear in mind that the 4-day Cheltenham National Hunt Festival tends to put a great deal of pressure on accommodation for a week in March.

Self-guided or guided?

      Should you prefer to walk with an organised group under the guidance of an experienced leader, several companies offer such holidays. The national trail website has a link (Holiday Planning) giving a list of such companies (see Appendix A).

Getting there and getting around

      Getting to, from and along the Cotswold Way (if you wish to tackle the route in stages) by public transport is reasonably straightforward, although some homework may be needed concerning timing. See www.escapetothecotswolds.org.uk for details of bus and rail services.

      Rail

      Train services connect London with Bath (in 90 minutes), as well as Stroud, Cheltenham, Moreton-in-Marsh and Evesham. Stratford-upon-Avon is served by rail from Birmingham. The Birmingham to Bristol line gives an opportunity to reach the Cotswold Way from stations at Ashchurch, Cheltenham, Gloucester, and Cam and Dursley. At the time of writing bus services connect Chipping Campden with the rail network at Evesham, Stratford-upon-Avon and Moreton-in-Marsh.

      National Express

      National Express coaches serve Bath and Cheltenham.

      Bus

      Bus routes into and along the Cotswolds are operated by several companies, but since operators are free to change or cancel services provided they give six weeks’ notice to the county councils, it is not possible to give any reliable detailed indication of service provision here. For national bus timetable information call 0871 200 2233 or visit www.traveline.org.uk.

First nights and last nights

      Chipping Camden

      Chipping Campden is the loveliest of all the Cotswold market towns that owe their elegance to the wool trade. Take a leisurely stroll along the High Street where the walk officially begins. It is lined with historic buildings whose honey-coloured stone is typical of the district. Among the most eye-catching, the 17th-century Market Hall is a prominent feature with its graceful arches; the nearby Woolstaplers’ Hall and Almshouses are both monuments to the silk merchant Sir Baptist Hicks who built Campden House in 1615 (burned down 30 years later in the Civil War) close to the beautiful perpendicular wool church of St James. Today only two gatehouses and two restored Jacobean banqueting houses are all that remain of the Hicks estate. Meanwhile the town has a number of fine old inns, hotels and restaurants.

      But if you arrive early enough, and have transport available, you might be interested in visiting the National Trust-owned Hidcote Manor Gardens, or the privately-owned (but open to the public) Kiftsgate Court Gardens in the village of Mickleton a short distance to the north of town. It’s also worth noting that in May each year Chipping Campden holds what has become one of the UK’s leading music festivals. For local up-to-date information, call in at the tourist office located in The Old Police Station in the High Street (01386 841206). Otherwise visit www.chippingcampdenonline.org, www.chippingcampden.co.uk or www.cotswolds.info/places/chipping-campden.

      Bath

      The Royal Crescent, Bath

      Bath predates the Romans, but it is the rich combination of Roman Baths, Abbey and the Georgian splendour of its buildings, that makes it such a compelling place to visit today. With the River Avon flowing below, the Roman Baths and magnificent Abbey form an unforgettable centre-piece, while just a street or two away, the symmetry of the Royal Crescent is an elegant backdrop to the Royal Victoria Park. Before putting on boots and rucksack (or after you’ve taken them off), spare a day at least to explore this most interesting of cities. Even if you fail to take afternoon tea at the Pump Room, steam up your glasses at the 1900 year-old Roman Baths, bathe in the waters of the new Thermae Spa, or be inspired by the architectural majesty of the Abbey, there are museums and art galleries, a choice of theatres, and the river itself to enjoy, with boat trips available.

      Accommodation? There are something like 250 options, and enough eating places to suit every taste and every pocket. The modern tourist information centre at Abbey Chambers has countless leaflets, maps and guidebooks available, but for a preview of what’s on and where in Bath, go to www.visitbath.co.uk or www.cotswolds.info/places/bath.

Accommodation

      Although the Cotswold Way can be walked in day sections with the aid of private (and, in some cases, public) transport, this guide has been written with the long-distance walker in mind. Overnight accommodation along the way is therefore a prime concern, and I have indicated where such accommodation was available during research (with full contact details given in Appendix B). For current details you are advised to go to the national trail website www.nationaltrail.co.uk/cotswold-way which includes a useful link.

      Cicerone will also be regularly updating an online version of Appendix B which will be available to anyone who has bought this guide. Go to www.cicerone.co.uk/member.

      Walkers are advised to book their accommodation in advance, and note that beds are at a premium during the race week of the Cheltenham Festival (in March) and when the Badminton Horse Trials take place (late April/May).

      There are very few facilities for campers along the Cotswold Way, although a few bed-and-breakfast establishments do allow camping in their grounds. Consult the national trail website mentioned above for details.

Facilities en route

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