Trekking in the Apennines. Gillian Price
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Название: Trekking in the Apennines
Автор: Gillian Price
Издательство: Ingram
Жанр: Книги о Путешествиях
isbn: 9781783622719
isbn:
Dappled sunlight in springtime woodland
May usually brings perfect walking weather, neither too hot nor too cold, though some rain is to be expected. Late September–October is simply glorious, with mile after mile of beech wood at its russet best. On the downside, low-lying cloud and mist are more likely in this season. Encounters with amateur hunters can also be expected in late autumn. Solitary optimists after tiny birds will mostly be camouflaged in hides on ridges and clearings – a polite greeting such as ‘Buon giorno’ (Good day) is in order to alert them to your presence. The chaotic large-scale boar hunts are not held until the midwinter months.
Walking any later than October will increase the chance of inclement weather and hotel closure. The majority of small towns and villages have one hotel operating year-round, but these sometimes restrict themselves to weekends and public holidays in the off-season. Moreover, with the end of Daylight Saving Time at the end of October the days will be too short for the longer stages.
In terms of transport and accommodation, with the odd exception, it is safe to say that Stages 1–13 are suitable from spring through to autumn, whereas the latter part (Stages 14–23) is limited to midsummer as most higher altitude refuges don’t start opening until June.
In terms of Italian public holidays, in addition to the Christmas–New Year period and Easter, people have time off on 6 January, 25 April, 1 May, 2 June, 15 August, 1 November and 8 December. At those times buses are less frequent and accommodation best booked ahead.
Accommodation
There are plenty of comfortable places to stay along the GEA thanks to an excellent string of family-run hotels (most with en suite bathrooms), alpine-style refuges, walkers’ hostels and rooms at monasteries, unfailingly welcoming places at the end of a long day on the trail. These enable walkers to proceed unencumbered by camping gear. Roughly speaking two-thirds of the GEA stages end at a hotel and the remaining third at a refuge. The accommodation options are shown as a yellow house symbol on the sketch maps. All have a restaurant and many offer the mezza pensione half board option. Costing around €40–60 per person this includes overnight stay, breakfast and a set three-course dinner (drinks excluded), invariably an excellent deal. Naturally other options such as B&B are also possible. Foodies may prefer to eat à la carte as a greater range of local specialties could be on offer.
La Verna sanctuary offers accommodation (Stage 3)
Unless otherwise indicated, establishments listed in the route description are open all year round, although off-season can be hit-or-miss as impromptu closures are not unheard of. Whatever time of year you go, don’t turn up unannounced but always phone ahead – or book by email where possible – to check there is a free bed and give them time to cater for you. Be aware that mid-August is peak holiday time in Italy and advance reservation is strongly recommended for hot spots such as Lago Santo Modenese, not to mention rifugi on Saturday evenings in summer, as many put up local walking groups. Lastly, remember that the majority of the road passes are served by buses, enabling you to detour to a nearby village and hotel if need be, an added bonus which gives visitors a rare glimpse into farming communities with vestiges of traditional life.
Dinnertime at Rifugio Lago Scaffaiolo (Stage 14)
The rifugi (plural of rifugio) are marvellous hostel-like huts mostly run by CAI, the Italian Alpine Club, but open to everyone. Reachable only on foot they are manned by a custodian (gestore) and a merry band of helpers and provide bunk beds in dormitories, along with a café and restaurant service; most also have hot showers. CAI cardholders and members of overseas alpine clubs with reciprocal rights are entitled to discounted rates. UK residents can join either CAI or its Austrian counterpart – see Appendix C. A quick note on hut etiquette: walking boots should be left in the entrance hall where slippers or flip-flops are usually available for guests; from 10pm to 6am it’s ‘lights out’ and silence. Unless specified otherwise, guests need their own sleeping sheet and towel.
Hotel at San Godenzo (Stage 6)
A Posto Tappa is the Italian equivalent of the French gîte d’étape walkers’ hostel; only two are encountered on the GEA – in Stages 7 and 13. They offer dorm accommodation and cooking facilities. Two unmanned and basic bivacco huts are also en route – they are always open but you need to be self-sufficient in food, sleeping bag and possibly water. A foresteria, on the other hand, refers to guest quarters at a monastery, though these days this usually translates as hotel-standard facilities.
Carry a stash of euros in cash as credit cards are rarely accepted for payment in the rifugi – unlike the majority of hotels and restaurants. Banks and ATMs in villages en route are listed in the walk description.
Rifugio Mariotti sits on the edge of Lago Santo Parmense (Stage 21)
When using the phone in Italy always include the ‘0’ of the area code, even for local calls. The sole exceptions are toll-free numbers beginning with ‘800’ and mobile phones that start with ‘3’, and the emergency numbers. All attempts at speaking Italian are appreciated – helpful expressions can be found in Appendix B.
Camping
By far the best way to enjoy this trek would be to combine guesthouses and camping out along the way; groceries can be purchased at the villages, and water is available en route. For walkers who prefer the freedom and don’t mind the extra weight, the odd discreet pitch won’t be a problem. A single night is tolerated in the designated national park areas of the Casentino (Stages 4–6) and the Appenino Tosco-emiliano (Stages 18–22). Generally speaking avoid private property and always check where possible. The only designated camping grounds on the route are located near Badia Prataglia (Stage 5), Passo della Futa (Stage 10) and Rigoso (off-route, Stage 20). In any case, early in the season it is a good idea to go equipped with bivvy gear just in case accommodation is not available.
Food and drink
Though it stays in Tuscany for the most part, the trek also takes in corners of the Italian regions of Umbria and Emilia-Romagna, and ends up at the doors of Liguria. Each is renowned for distinctive and memorable cuisine, a wonderful bonus for visitors.
A good rule is to be adventurous and ask the staff what their specialities are. Don’t skip the antipasti (starters) unless you have a particular aversion to bruschetta, crunchy bread rubbed with fresh garlic, a drizzle of olive oil and chopped fresh tomatoes. Then there are crostini, an unfailingly scrumptious assortment of toasted bread morsels piled with pâté, melted goat’s cheese, wild mushrooms or olive paste. Don’t miss Emilian crescentine, also known as ficattole by the Tuscans: lightly fried savoury pastry, akin to soft Indian naan bread, served warm with thin slices of ham, salami or local sausage such as finocchiona, flavoured with fennel seeds. The famous cured Parma ham is prosciutto crudo.
All manner of fresh home-rolled pasta is proudly on offer. One traditional speciality is tortelli (similar to ravioli) con ripieno di patate with a potato or zucca pumpkin filling, or stuffed with creamy but light ricotta cheese and spinach. Ravioli toscani on the other hand are filled with meat and vegetables. They come either smothered in rich pomodoro (tomato) or al ragù, the tomatoey-meat sauce that made Bologna famous, if not al burro e salvia СКАЧАТЬ