Spain's Sendero Historico: The GR1. John Hayes

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      Industrialisation and the Spanish Civil War

      The GR1 will also remind the walker of more recent aspects of Spanish history (for instance the trenches near Corconte, remnants of the tragedy of the Spanish Civil War), but what might provide the biggest surprise will be the abandoned villages in Aragón and the legacy of the rapid rural depopulation in the 1960s and 70s.

      Every European country, and indeed most countries in the world, has experienced rural depopulation but in Spain it was a recent and extreme process. Compared with most western countries the impact of the industrial revolution in Spain was limited, relatively late and came to an abrupt halt with the Spanish Civil War. For two decades, the 1940s and 50s, the economy was at a standstill. Then in the sixties things changed almost overnight with industry and tourism developing rapidly and the Spanish economy experiencing a growth rate second only to Japan. The contrast between poverty in the countryside, where many villages were still without electricity, and the opportunities in the cities suddenly became all too obvious and people, particularly young women, voted with their feet and left.

      Although the effects of post 1960s rural depopulation are easy to spot all across Spain they are especially dramatic along a particular stretch of the GR1 in Aragón between Arguis and Paúles de Sarsa. The walking is beautiful with wonderful views of the Pyrenees to the north and the 2000m Guara mountain immediately to the south. The abandoned farmsteads, villages and small towns however are even more remarkable. Houses with paper still hanging from the walls and woodwork painted in colours as fresh as the day it was applied give an impression that things were abandoned overnight. It feels unnervingly like a post-apocalyptic world.

      Spain continues to experience turmoil and, after the almost magical transition from dictatorship and fascism, has experienced the extremes of boom and bust. At the time of writing the recession – or the ‘crisis’ as the Spanish refer to it – has persisted for seven years and the impact on young people in particular is dreadful. Linked perhaps to the crisis is the other great theme of contemporary Spanish life – separatism. Confronted with an assertive presentation of different flags, graffiti and, of course, language, the GR1 traveller could easily conclude as they journey east through the Basque Country, and later Catalonia, that they are experiencing the emergence of new countries.

What the trails are like

      The GR1 follows paths originally designed to link village with village that were, until recently, the main thoroughfares as the vast majority of goods were carried by people, mules and donkeys. Many of these trails are in their original state and make for perfect walking. They are gently graded and designed for getting heavy loads steadily up and over hills. Quite often the work in constructing these routes is apparent with walls (above or below), conduits to remove water and even some of the original paving still in place. The most interesting paths are to be found in the mountains close to ancient stone villages. Here they will be walled on both sides and, just occasionally if you look closely, you can make out grooves in the carefully placed slabs of rock produced by centuries of wear from the iron rims of wagon wheels. In places a new road, capable of carrying vehicles, has been constructed to replace the original path. The old trail, with its bridges intact, is invariably more direct.

      Under the Aguja Roja between Riglos and Loarre (Section 5, Stage 1)

      Nature is gradually reclaiming these old paths and unless they are used or maintained they will eventually disappear altogether. Centuries of wear have also turned some into gashes in the landscape – trenches – which in the winter fill with snow and mud and in the summer become overgrown with brambles. They are occasionally impassable and the only option is to seek an alternative route.

      As with most long-distance trails there is some road walking on the GR1 but thankfully, given its length, very little. Quite often the original surface has been made accessible for farm vehicles or four-wheel drives but rarely does this generate an uncomfortable hard surface.

      The GR1 is a long but easy walk. The walking is safe, does not involve any scrambling and you don’t need a head for heights. It is however a walk that takes you into remote empty countryside and there are days when you are unlikely to see anyone else.

      Dealing with dogs

      Dogs are a feature of walking in Spain and the standard Spanish approach to keeping burglars away is to build a fence around the property and put one or more dogs inside it. They make a lot of noise and this can be unnerving. Passing through a village can trigger a dog-barking chain reaction that starts before arrival and doesn’t finish until long after departure. When there isn’t a fence for protection the dogs seem to change their nature and aggression ceases. Barking dogs are intimidating but a shake of a walking pole invariably puts them in their place. It may be tempting fate to say so but after thousands of kilometres of Spanish walking I am yet to be bitten by a dog.

Staying in Spain

      This guide has been produced on the assumption that walkers will use the local accommodation, walk from place to place and, for their comfort, carry the minimum amount of gear. It is possible to walk most of the GR1 and start and finish each day in accommodation directly on the route. Occasionally diversions are necessary, even a taxi journey, and where this is case the detailed notes describe what to do.

      The church tower of the submerged village of Mediano (Section 5, Stage 7)

      Very often the accommodation recommended is the only accommodation available. One of the joys of this kind of walking is the element of surprise involved in where you end up staying.

      Broadly speaking there are two types of accommodation – provided in small hotels or by individuals.

      Small hotel accommodation is described in Spain in various ways and with no great consistency. A hotel might be described as a hostal, auberge or hotel and the description will not give you much idea what to expect. A hostal for example, could be rooms above a bar providing fairly minimal services or it could be a lavish weekend retreat aimed at wealthy Spaniards from the city and providing a fine dining experience. Invariably the rooms are meticulously clean (the Spanish apparently use more cleaning materials per head than anyone in Europe), good value and with kind, friendly owners.

      Private accommodation is usually described as a casa rural and again the title is not that helpful. It can mean a room in the owner‘s own home – similar to bed and breakfast; it can mean taking a single room in a property designed for a full property let; or it can involve a room in a property similar to a small hotel where food is provided to guests.

      Where hotel-like accommodation exists this guide does not attempt to list the alternative casa rural options. Surprisingly they tend to be more expensive and are usually less fun.

      There are a few places where the only accommodation available is a genuine hostel – sometimes provided by the local council – a bit like a youth hostel and where the accommodation might be in a dormitory (although chances are you will have it to yourself). Where this is the only option you will need a sheet sleeping bag and your own soap and towel.

      Using the internet to find and book accommodation

      There is an interesting disconnection between the information provided on websites and the reality of in situ. Many of the nicest hotels barely feature on the internet while others with sophisticated websites disappoint on arrival.

      Increasingly Spanish hotels and even casa rurals are СКАЧАТЬ