The Cape Wrath Trail. Iain Harper

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      Sandwood Bay (Stage 13)

      From the headland that juts imperiously over the broad ochre strand of Sandwood Bay, you may catch a first glimpse of the Cape Wrath lighthouse peeking over the low, dun hills of the horizon, beckoning you the final few miles towards the end of one of the world’s finest long-distance walks. You’ll already have crossed most of the northwest coast of Scotland via Morar, Knoydart, Torridon, Assynt and Sutherland, winding through some of its most remote and beautiful glens. Cape Wrath itself, staring out into the white-capped North Atlantic, closer to the Arctic Circle than London, is now within a day’s walk.

      The Cape Wrath Trail is not an officially recognised UK National Trail. In truth, it is not really a trail at all, more a jigsaw of routes between Fort William and the most northwesterly point of mainland Britain, to be assembled according to your preferences. Perhaps because of this unique flexibility and lack of formal status, it has become highly regarded by many backpackers. It’s a tough test for anyone and you’ll brave remote country, rugged terrain, rain, wind, midges, bog and tricky river crossings. Most people take between two and three weeks to complete the full journey and whatever time of year you attempt the trail it will test the limits of your physical and mental endurance. But dark, boggy moments are quickly forgotten amid a solitude and beauty rarely found in modern life.

      This trail has an intriguing capacity to draw people into some of the most wild and remote places Scotland has to offer. The cape itself, so aptly named, pulls you inexorably northwards – there can be few other long-distance paths with such an inspiring finale. There is also something in the challenge of traversing such a vast, primal and largely unspoilt tract of land that explains why this route has attracted so many fans. Its beauty lies in its freedom: you’ll find few signposts around here. This one’s for true connoisseurs of the wild lands, and it’s down to you.

      This book draws together updates and attempts to improve on a variety of routes that have previously been suggested. It also offers a wide range of variations, recognising that there can be no definitive path suitable for all. It shares the same intrinsic aims as those that have gone before, namely to visit the most scenic areas and avoid most tarmac roads and high level mountain traverses. This brings the route well within the abilities of most ambitious but experienced hill walkers.

      Descending into Gleann Cuìrnean (Stage 2)

      The trail traditionally begins in Fort William and winds across Ardgour towards Glenfinnan, taking in the gloriously remote rough bounds of Knoydart before striking north to Shiel Bridge, Strathcarron, Kinlochewe and lnverlael, near Ullapool. A popular alternative route leaves Fort William via the Great Glen Way before turning north to cut across Glen Garry and Glen Shiel, rejoining the main route at Morvich, near Shiel Bridge. North of the Ullapool road, the route turns inland to Oykel Bridge before heading towards Glencoul via Inchnadamph and the majestic Ben More. Then, below the shadows of Arkle and Foinaven, the final stretch passes Rhiconich and on to the farthest northwest coast and over the moors to Sandwood Bay and the Cape Wrath lighthouse, the end of the journey.

      Follow as much or as little of the route as you like. Take detours, plan alternatives, make the journey to the Cape your own. It’s one that will live with you for the rest of your life.

      Iain Harper, 2012

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