Название: The Moselle Cycle Route
Автор: Mike Wells
Издательство: Ingram
Жанр: Книги о Путешествиях
isbn: 9781783620821
isbn:
Guidebooks
Bikeline (www.esterbauer.com) publish a Radtourenbuch und Karte (cycle tour guidebook with maps) in both English and German, covering the route from Metz to Koblenz.
Although neither a map nor guidebook, a topographic strip map of the Saar and Mosel from Merzig (Saar) to Koblenz, produced by Rahmelverlag (www.rahmel-verlag.de), gives a good overall impression of the route and makes an attractive souvenir. It is published in a number of languages, including English, and is sold in gift shops along the route.
In the UK, most of these maps and guidebooks are available from leading bookshops including Stanford’s, London and The Map Shop, Upton upon Severn. Relevant maps are widely available en route.
Accommodation
Hotels, inns, guesthouses, and bed & breakfast
For most of the route there is a wide variety of accommodation. The stage descriptions identify places known to have accommodation, but the list is by no means exhaustive. Hotels vary from expensive five-star properties to modest local establishments. Hotels and inns usually offer a full meal service, guesthouses do sometimes. B&Bs, which in Germany can be recognised by a sign zimmer frei (‘room available’), generally offer only breakfast. Tourist information offices will often telephone for you and make local reservations. After hours, some tourist offices display a sign outside showing local establishments with vacancies. Booking ahead is seldom necessary, except on popular stages in high season, although it is advisable to start looking for accommodation after 1600. Most properties are cycle-friendly and will find a secure overnight place for your pride and joy.
Prices for accommodation in both France and Germany are similar to, or slightly cheaper than, prices in the UK.
Bett+Bike
Bett+Bike (www.bettundbike.de) is a German scheme run by ADFC (German cycling club), which has over 5000 registered establishments providing cycle-friendly accommodation. It includes a wide variety of properties, from major hotels to local B&Bs, listed by state in an annually updated guidebook. Participating establishments display a Bett+Bike sign.
Bett+Bike sign
Youth hostels
There are 13 official youth hostels, many in historic buildings, on or near the route (three French, eight German and two in Luxembourg). These are listed in Appendix E. To use a youth hostel you need to be a member of an association affiliated to Hostelling International. If you are not a member you will be required to join the local association. Rules vary from country to country but generally all hostels accept guests of any age, although visitors over 27 may face a small surcharge (€3 in Germany). Rooms vary from single-sex dormitories to family rooms of two to six beds. Unlike British hostels, most continental European hostels do not have self-catering facilities but do provide good-value hot meals. Hostels can get very busy, particularly during school holidays, and booking is advised through www.hihostels.com.
Camping
If you are prepared to carry camping equipment this may appear the cheapest way of cycling the Moselle. However, good-quality campsites with all facilities are often only a little cheaper than B&Bs or hostels. The stage descriptions identify many official campsites, but the list is by no means exhaustive. Camping may be possible in other locations with the permission of local landowners.
Food and drink
Where to eat
There are thousands of places where cyclists can eat and drink, varying from snack bars, hotdog stands and local inns to Michelin-starred restaurants. The locations of many places to eat are identified in the stage descriptions below, but the list is by no means exhaustive. Days and opening times vary. Try to be flexible when planning your day, as a number of inns and small restaurants do not open at lunchtime and may observe one day a week, known in German as ruhetag, on which they remain closed. A local inn offering food and drink is typically known as auberge in France and gaststätte in Germany. A weinstube is a winebar, often attached to a vineyard. Some restaurants in big cities and tourist areas may have English-language menus, but these are less common in smaller towns and rural locations.
When to eat
Breakfast in France is usually continental: breads, jam and a hot drink; in Germany it is the same but with the addition of cold meats, cheese and a boiled egg. In Germany lunch was traditionally the main meal of the day, but this is slowly changing, and a large lunch is unlikely to prove suitable if you plan an afternoon in the saddle. The most common lunchtime snacks everywhere are soups or sandwiches. In France croque monsieur (toasted ham and cheese sandwich) and quiche Lorraine are widely available, while in Germany wurst mit senf und brot (sausages with mustard and bread) and wurst salat (thin strips of slicing sausage served with sauerkraut – pickled cabbage) are popular.
For dinner, a wide variety of cuisine is available. In France cooking is treated almost as a religion, with even the smallest restaurant offering a variety of good-quality dishes cooked on the premises, often using locally sourced ingredients. German cuisine is less varied, but quality is always good and portions are generally large. There are many restaurants offering other options including Italian, Greek, Turkish and Chinese. Much of what is available is pan-European and will be easily recognisable. There are, however, national and regional dishes you may wish to try.
Quiche Lorraine
What to eat
In France the route is entirely in Lorraine, which has a typically French cuisine with some Alsatian and German influences. This includes the popular Alsatian dish of choucroute garnie, a dish of various cuts of pork meat and sausages served with sauerkraut heated in white wine. A typical light meal is tarte flambée or flammekueche, a thin pizza-style base covered with white cheese, onions and bacon and cooked in a wood oven. The most famous local speciality is quiche Lorraine, an open savoury tart filled with egg, cream and bacon. French patisseries (cake shops) offer a mouth-watering selection of cakes and pastries including local specialities like macaroons from Nancy and madeleines. Mirabelles are small golden plums, harvested in August and used to make both fruit tarts and a strong fruit brandy.
Germany is the land of the schwein (pig) and pork, gammon, bacon and ham dishes dominate German menus. Traditionally, pork was pot-roasted or grilled rather than fried. There are over 1500 types of German wurst (sausage), the most common being bratwurst (made from minced pork and served grilled or fried), wienerwurst (smoked sausages served boiled, known as frankfurters in English) and blutwurst (blood sausage). Sauerbraten is marinated roast beef, while fleischkaese and leberkaese are kinds of meat loaf. Forelle (trout) and lachs (salmon) are the most popular fish. The most common vegetable accompaniments are sauerkraut and boiled potatoes. Reibekuchen are potato pancakes, served with apple sauce. Spargel (white asparagus) is consumed in huge quantities during Spargelzeit (asparagus season), between mid-April and 24 June. Germans tend to eat kuchen (cakes) in mid-morning or mid-afternoon and as a result desserts offered with main meals are rather limited, often to just apple strudel or ice cream.
Wine
The Moselle gorge, together СКАЧАТЬ