Tour of the Matterhorn. Hilary Sharp

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      The rather grand Hotel Schwarzhorn (Stage 2)

      Huts or refuges

      Mountain huts vary greatly in the facilities they offer, from quite luxurious with showers and even rooms to the most basic with just a dormitory and a dining room. There are always toilets, and running cold water is almost guaranteed (although the exceptionally hot summer of 2003 did see a few isolated cases of dried-up water supplies). Huts high in the mountains may not have running water early in the morning when the source could be frozen, so it's wise to fill water bottles the previous evening. Most huts are open from late June to early September, and there will be a guardian in residence, who usually cooks an evening meal and provides breakfast. At a few huts you can take your own food, but you must make sure the guardian is happy with this. Quite frankly it is hardly worth the effort of carrying up food when a very good meal will be on offer for a reasonable price. Drinks – alcoholic and otherwise – are also sold.

      In Italy there are strict laws about public water supplies and in some huts you may be told the tap water is not controlled – this means they cannot guarantee that it is clean.

      Hut etiquette

      We are privileged in the Alps to have a system of huts that enables us to walk just carrying small packs, knowing that at the end of each day we'll have somewhere to sleep and a good hot meal. It's really important that we treat the huts and their guardians with the respect that they deserve. I highly recommend that you book accommodation in advance, even if you just phone the night before; and if you are not going to show up do call to cancel. When you arrive at a hut make yourself known to the guardian and let him show you what to do. Each hut has its own system; some are very relaxed, others less so. The guardian will tell you where to leave your sac: sometimes you can take it to your room, sometimes not. He will ask you to take off your boots and show you where to put them, as well as where to leave crampons and trekking poles. You are expected to vacate your room by a certain time in the morning and to leave it as you found it; this generally means folding up blankets or quilts.

      If you have particular dietary requirements tell the guardian when you arrive so he can prepare a suitable meal. Most huts do not have a huge variety of food available, so unless you really are a vegetarian it's best to eat whatever you are given. Huts do sell drinks, and sometimes you can run up a tab and pay for everything at the end of your stay. Many huts prefer that you settle the bill before going to bed. Remember that credit cards are not usually accepted, so take cash.

      Although sometimes the guardian and friends may party til the small hours it's generally accepted that from 10pm everyone is in bed.

      Most huts do not have road access, so everything has to be transported up by helicopter or on foot. Bear this in mind and take your own rubbish down.

Languages

      The Matterhorn and associated peaks lie on the Swiss–Italian border. Whilst you will find that in the main centres of Breuil-Cervinia – and especially Zermatt – English is widely understood it is nevertheless worth making an effort to speak the local languages. Shopkeepers and hoteliers have realised that it serves them well to speak English, and most do to some extent. Not withstanding this, it is worth making the effort to learn a few basic words; there is a lot of pleasure to be gained by having a go at communicating in the local language. Generally people will meet you halfway and will respect your endeavours in the realm of international relations!

      Viewed from the Höhbalmen trail above Zermatt the Matterhorn looks especially fine

      Pleasant walking on dry glacier (Stage 5)

      In the Swiss part of the walk you will hike in both German- and French-speaking Switzerland, and the languages do not really overlap. From Zermatt to the Meidpass or Forcletta (Stage 3) German (or more precisely Swiss-German) is spoken, then it changes to French. From the Col Collon onwards Italian is used, all the way back to the Theodulpass.

      Some useful words are noted in the Glossary and Useful Terms (Appendix IV), and those relating to the weather can be especially useful if you do not manage to find a forecast in English.

Currencies

      With the introduction of the Euro it has become very easy to travel around Europe, although some consider it to be a bit dull – gone are the heady days when you had to go armed with millions of Italian lire to buy a loaf of bread! In Switzerland, however, the Swiss franc remains the currency, but some cafés and supermarkets will accept Euros if that's all you have with you. The same applies to Swiss mountain huts, but don't expect to get a good rate of exchange. Change will generally be given in francs.

      In the big towns credit cards are generally accepted and travellers' cheques can be cashed. There are also ATMs. However, bear in mind that there are really only two centres that fit these criteria on the trek: Breuil-Cervinia and Zermatt. In addition there are banks, as well as all other facilities, at Evolène, 3km off the route at Les Haudères, and at Grimentz in the Val d'Anniviers (Stage 4). Valpelline is probably too far from Prarayer to serve a similar purpose – you'd have to make a long detour to get there – unless bad weather has closed in.

Difficulty of the Trail

      The Tour of the Matterhorn takes in non-glaciated and glaciated terrain. As glaciers go, the ones crossed on this trek are relatively gentle slopes, and the gear and experience needed is covered elsewhere in the book (see also Appendix V). The rest of the trek is generally waymarked. The trails are quite rough and rocky in places, and occasionally the steeper sections have been equipped with metal rungs and/or cables. These sections are short and not difficult, although in rain or snow they would be a bit slippery.

Maps

      There is now a dedicated Tour of the Matterhorn map: Tour of the Matterhorn 1:50,000 Edition IG IVRN available at Wega bookshop in Zermatt. Other 1:50,000 maps: Carte Nationale de la Suisse 5006 Matterhorn Mischabel; Istituto Geografico Centrale 5 Cervino-Matterhorn e Monte Rosa.

      1:25,000 maps: Carte Nationale de la Suisse 1328 Randa; 1308 St Niklaus; 1307 Vissoie; 1327 Evolène; 1347 Matterhorn; 1348 Zermatt; Istituto Geografico Centrale 108 Cervino Matterhorn, Breuil-Cervinia, Champoluc.

      1:30,000 map: Istituto Geografico Centrale 115 La Valpelline, Valle di Ollomont, Valle di St Barthelemy. Note Although this map is 1:30,000 I have used it as a 1:25,000 map as there is no alternative.

      Maps are available locally, or from:

      The Map Shop

      Freephone: 0800 085 40 80;

      tel: 01684 593146 Fax: 01684 594559

      e-mail: [email protected]

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