Trekking in the Alps. Kev Reynolds

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      The GTA follows Valchiusella with its lovely stone bridges

      After Noasca, a string of strenuous traverses reaches Val Soana, the eastern border of the Gran Paradiso National Park. Stopovers are enjoyed in the villages of Ronco Canavese and tiny Piamprato near the valley head beneath the striated bulk of Rosa dei Banchi. Here walkers are put up in a ‘doll’s house’, the old school erected by the magnanimous king for his subjects, only a handful of whom still call this home.

      Neighbouring Valchiusella is a showcase for seven elegant stone footbridges, leftovers from the 1700s. Another point in its favour are the dairy farms dotted along its flanks. Local families at Alpe Chiaromonte, for instance, turn out delicious goat and sheep cheeses. The proximity of the key traffic artery Valle d’Aosta is soon felt; this is a bilingual French–Italian language region, the heritage of the Savoy dynasty. The GTA touches on Quincinetto, a handy place for joining or leaving the trek.

      The Pennine Alps: from Quincinetto to Molini Calasca

      Parallel to the road is the mighty Dora Baltea river, its waters milky grey from the melted snow and ice that flow from Mont Blanc upstream. It irrigates the traditional vineyards, supported on pergolas and stone columns, which produce niche wines. A paved way through chestnut wood winds up to Maletto and its welcoming village inn. Next comes a long ridge, where views are dominated by the adjoining Colma di Mombarone, an austere triangle of grey rock. A tad of scrambling is encountered, aided stretches dictated by the degree of exposure. This day’s conclusion is Rifugio Coda at 2280m, with a breathtaking outlook over the spread of the Western Alps with Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn and Monte Rosa.

      Around a couple of rocky corners is an 800m drop to the ‘St Peter’s of the Alps’, the mammoth sanctuary of Oropa. This sports a huge domed church and cavernous premises catering for the thousands of pilgrims attracted by its reputation for miracles, but is rather too busy a place for walkers to linger at length.

      The peaceful Valle Cervo which follows has Alpine attraction in the shape of pretty villages. It was put on the map by an ambitious well-intentioned senator in the mid-1800s, who gave his name to Rosazza, a model village with ornate turreted palaces, mock villas and fountains, once a popular mountain resort for the well-off.

      An aided stretch after leaving Rifugio Coda in the Pennine Alps

      At the head of this charming valley and lively Piedicavallo, a stiff climb of 1050m leads relentlessly to Rifugio Rivetti (2150m), an eyrie back up in the clouds again. Meals are provided by an energetic team who race each other up the access path (the one you’ve just slaved up!) bearing loaded rucksacks. Just above is Punta Tre Vescovi, where a lot more was at stake during the culinary competitions held by the ‘three bishops’ who would spread out their feasts of cheese and wine on the rock slabs on the top! The outlook’s not bad either, though a short way along, at 2495m Passo del Maccagno, things open up superbly to the awe-inspiring icy sprawl of Monte Rosa.

      However, not only is the vicinity of the landmark massif exciting, but the GTA is also about to enter Valsesia, homeland of the ancient Walsers who migrated to here from the North with their distinctive language and culture. Their picture-postcard timber houses have survived the ravages of time, with a little restoration, their shaded terraces and window boxes draped with bright red geraniums.

      Alagna Valsesia is a perfect place for forays onto the immense southeastern flanks of Monte Rosa dotted with all manner of mechanised lifts and refuges. As a destination 3153m Punta Indren is hard to beat, set amidst green-tinged tarns and glaciers and a jumping-off point for Capanna Margherita, the highest manned hut in the whole of Europe. At 4554m, it stands on renowned Punta Gnifetti, named in honour of the parish priest who first ‘conquered’ it in 1842 in order to dispel the long-standing myths depicting it as the abode of wandering spirits.

      Back on the trail, spreads of raspberries and bilberries make a tasty distraction from the fatigue of continual ups and downs en route to the peaceful traditional villages of Rima, Carcoforo, Rimella then Campello Monti, where walkers are put up in the spotless old school house, where bunks have replaced the desks. On these five final days, the GTA edges its way around the easternmost fringes of Monte Rosa to its conclusion in Valle Anzasca. Here a bus can be caught to the Alpine village of Macugnaga for close-ups of dramatic icy landscapes beneath the southeastern face of majestic Monte Rosa.

      Near the trek’s conclusion, this view from Bocchetta dell’Usciolo overlooks the Ossola valley through to Switzerland

TREK 2

      Tour of the Queyras by Alan Castle

СКАЧАТЬ

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Start/Finish	Montdauphin-Guillestre in the Durance Valley, 34km south of Briançon
Distance	186km
Grade	Moderate
Time	12 days (a shortened version of about 8 days is also easily possible)
Terrain	French and Italian Alps between Briançon and Turin
Max Altitude	2921m (3208m optional ascents)
Guidebooks	Tour of the Queyras by Alan Castle (Cicerone Press, 2009)