Walking in Corsica. Gillian Price

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      At Bocca Rezza (Mare e Monti)

      The timing given at the start of each walk does not include rest breaks or time out for taking photographs, so always add extra when planning your day’s load. On level ground an averagely fit person will cover 5km (about 3 miles) in 1 hour. Timing given during the walk description is partial (ie. from the last reference point), unless otherwise specified. Some walkers may wish to combine some of the day stages in the long-distance walks in line with their fitness and availability of accommodation.

      An entry for height gain and loss (ascent/descent) can be found in each walk heading (except where the ground is mostly flat) and is an important indicator of the type of itinerary. Combined with the distance covered, it furnishes an idea of the effort required. Generally speaking, 300m (about 1000ft) in ascent is feasible in 1 hour. For the long-distance routes, these details can be found under the individual day headings along with the distance. Moreover, for anyone who finds it more convenient to follow them in the reverse direction, estimated times have been included in the ‘Route Summaries’ at the end of the guide, together with information about transport, accommodation and shops.

      Place names will be encountered in varieties of French–Corsican– Italian, and disparities are regularly encountered between maps and actual signposts. Small villages and hamlets are important landmarks especially on the long-distance trails, however few have identifying signposts and there isn’t often anyone to ask. One unfailingly reliable system for finding out where you are is to locate the cenotaph, as each village sent its sons to the conflicts France was engaged in, and the village name appears there.

      Several stretches of the long-distance walks described in this guide have been adapted as day-walks with a return to base, and are described separately. However visitors with two cars at their disposal can follow virtually any stretch of the long-distance routes with a little advance planning. More ambitious, experienced walkers may want to undertake the renowned long-distance route the Grande Randonnée GR20, which traverses the island from Calenzana in the northwest to Conca in the southeast in 15 stages. It entails countless scrambles as the route climbs amidst top mountain scenery, but the ‘downside’ is that walkers need to be experienced as well as largely self-sufficient in terms of water, food and sleeping gear. Paddy Dillon’s detailed guide GR20 Corsica – The High-Level Route is available from Cicerone.

      In addition to the selection of walks described in this guide, interesting suggestions can be found in the brochures ‘Balades en Corse – Sentiers du Pays’, put out by the Parc Naturel Régional de Corse and available at local tourist offices. However they give no route details and a map is essential. Many routes are signposted at the very start then you are quickly left to your own devices.

      Difficulty

      A scale of 1 to 3 has been used to grade the walks in terms of difficulty.

Dos and Don’ts

      Walking boots should be neither too new (blisters!) or too old (insufficient grip on stony terrain).

      Don’t overload your rucksack, as a sore back can spoil your holiday. An excessive load can also put you off balance on exposed ridges or during steep descents. Be honest – are you really going to have the time or energy to read that novel? Are those extra clothes really essential? (Corsica is a relaxed holiday destination and the need for ‘dressing up’ is rare.) It’s enlightening to weigh your pack before setting out on long-distance routes – if it exceeds 10kg, think again.

      Take both weather forecasts and fire warnings seriously and be prepared to modify your walk route if needs be. In the unfortunate event that you experience one of the island’s infamous violent summer storms, complete with unbelievably torrential rain and potentially dangerous lightning, keep well away from prominent trees, rock overhangs, caves and metal fixtures (get rid of your trekking poles), and curl up on the ground keeping your head down. If on the other hand you are caught out by fire, take cover if possible in a watercourse, or on a high point where rescuers can spot you easily. If you notice a fire burning alert the authorities by phoning 18 (the pompiers, fire brigade) or 112 (general emergency number). Remember that lighting a fire out in the open is strictly forbidden from July through to September, though a total fire ban may be in force for a longer period.

      Take care when fording rivers after heavy rain. Even the most sluggish watercourse can swell in a surprisingly short time and produce an impetuous flow. A stick or trekking pole will aid balance.

      When crossing suspension bridges, one person at a time is the best rule, and the same goes for aided rock passages with fixed chain.

      Don’t plan your walk in too rigid a manner, as it will limit your flexibility. Allow for rest days and breaks for detours to places of interest instead of rushing straight through.

      Carry plenty of drinking water at all times of year. When settlements are touched on, you’ll nearly always get a refill, as true to farming tradition it’s a very rare village that has no public drinking fountain or tap. Natural watercourses abound; however, so does grazing livestock, so drinking from streams is not always advisable.

      Never proceed too far without checking for waymarking, as lack thereof may mean a wrong turn onto one of the many hunter’s or boar trails. The long-distance routes are especially well marked with orange paint stripes.

      Be considerate when making a toilet stop. Keep away from watercourses and never leave unsightly paper or tissues lying around. Derelict buildings or rock overhangs are also out – remember that they could serve as emergency shelter for someone!

      Residents in the EU should take with them the European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which replaces the E111 and entitles the holder to reciprocal health treatment in France. A ‘Health Advice for Travellers’ leaflet is available at post offices in the UK. Travel insurance covering a walking holiday is also recommended, and is essential for non-Europeans.

      Last but not at all least behave as a responsible walker and leave nothing behind you except footprints.