Walking in Bulgaria's National Parks. Julian Perry

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      White stork (Ciconia ciconia)

      On meadows in the high-mountain treeless zone there are water pipit (Anthus spinoletta), Balkan horned lark (Eremophila alpestris ssp. balcanica) and skylark (Alauda arvensis), while streams are frequented by grey wagtail (Motacilla cinerea) and dipper (Cinclus cinclus), and more rocky terrain by black redstart (Phoenicurus ochruros), northern wheatear (Oenanthe oenanthe), alpine accentor (Prunella collaris ssp. subalpina), rock partridge (Alectoris graeca) and wallcreeper (Tichodroma muraria).

      Finally, you should always keep an eye on the sky overhead where, as well as being able to spot red-rumped swallow (Hirundo daurica), crag martin (Ptyonoprogne rupestris), alpine swift (Tachymarptis melba), raven (Corvus corax) and alpine chough (Pyrrhocorax graculus), there is always a chance of glimpsing a bird of prey. Possible raptors that could be seen in the national park include common buzzard (Buteo buteo), long-legged buzzard (Buteo rufinus), golden eagle (Aquila chrysaetos), kestrel (Falco tinnunculus), saker falcon (Falco cherrug) and peregrine (Falco peregrinus), as well as the occasional foraging imperial eagle (Aquila heliaca).

      Mammals

      There have been 63 species of mammal recorded within the national park, including 22 species of bat. There are also 17 species of large mammal, of which 13 species are carnivores. Data from 1999 suggests there are about 60 brown bears (Ursus arctos) roaming within the national park, as well as nine packs of wolves (Canis lupus) totalling about 25 to 30 individuals. Deer are very important prey for the latter, and the national park is home to about 1000–1200 roe deer (Capreolus capreolus) and 400 red deer (Cervus elaphus), although unfortunately the red deer population is declining badly due to poaching. The same is true for the Balkan chamois (Rupicapra rupicapra ssp. balcanica), which now numbers less than 80 individuals. Wild boar (Sus scrofa), on the other hand, seem to be doing well, with a population of 350–400 animals.

      Walking Opportunities

      The Central Balkan national park has a good network of well-maintained hiking trails, including a section of the E3 European long-distance walking route, which follows the main ridge of the Stara Planina from the Serbian border in the west to Cape Emine in the east. The national park authorities have also established several interpretative routes in the region, as well as a number of special eco-trails. For accommodation within the national park, walkers also have at their disposal 21 mountain huts and several small refuges, not to mention the numerous hotels and guest-houses that are found in settlements around the foot of the mountains.

      For the purposes of this guidebook, I have linked together some of what I consider to be the most interesting, picturesque and representative trails, to form four multi-stage walks each with durations of between three and four days (33 to 51km). These walks are not only beautiful mountain routes in their own rights, but the trails have been specifically chosen to take you through the nine nature reserves of the national park, thereby providing the perfect opportunity to discover more about the rich flora and fauna of the region.

      Maps

WALK 1

      The Boatin, Tsarichina and Kozya Stena Reserves

      This wonderfully varied walk explores the western part of the Central Balkan National Park, taking in three nature reserves that are rich in flora and fauna. The trail starts off in the ancient beech forests of the Boatin Reserve, a rugged and steeply sloping region formed around the catchment area of the Cherni Vit, whose headstreams lie deeply cut into the northern flank of the mountains beneath Tetevenska Baba (2071m). On the second day, the route skirts the southern edge of the Tsarichina Reserve, renowned for its expansive sub-alpine pastures as well as its coniferous forests. Then, on the third day of the walk, the trail continues its spectacular course along the crest of the Stara Planina, before dropping down north to the village and spa resort of Chiflik. Much of this day you are walking in the Kozya Stena Reserve, a wild region formed around the headstreams of the Beli Osam. The reserve is named ‘the goat wall’, after its most impressive peak, Kozya Stena (1670m), whose northwestern flank forms a dramatic 100m high cliff.