The Swiss Alps. Kev Reynolds

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        North of Champex, in effect backing the resort, a long mountain spine culminates in the summit crown of Le Catogne (2598m). The ascent, which begins at the lower end of the village, is not difficult, but has 1100m of height to gain. A major reward for making the ascent is the extent of the summit view, which is especially fine towards the Dents du Midi.

        A day’s walk (4½–5hrs) leading to Col de la Forclaz via the Bovine alp is known to thousands of trekkers, as it forms a stage of the TMB. First visiting the chalets of Champex d’en Haut and Champex d’en Bas, it makes a lengthy slanting traverse of forest and pasture, with occasional views of the Dents du Midi, as well as the Alpes Vaudoises across the Rhône valley, and a backward view to the Grand Combin. Although not as strenuous as the alternative TMB stage via the Fenêtre d’Arpette (see below), this Bovine route is demanding enough. At the end of the day accommodation is available at Hotel du Col de la Forclaz (see 1:5 for details). To vary the return to Champex, consider making a round-trip by reversing the Fenêtre d’Arpette route (about 6½hrs from Forclaz to Champex).

        The crossing of the 2665m Fenêtre d’Arpette in the Val d’Arpette headwall should only be attempted under settled conditions and after any troublesome snow has cleared from the upper slopes. In a ‘normal’ summer, this is likely to be around early July, although snow patches often remain throughout the summer. Gained in about 3½–4hrs from Champex, the fenêtre is very much a window onto a different world, for the west side of the pass is dominated by the Trient glacier spilling from the Plateau du Trient, while a distant view includes the dammed lake of Emosson, with the Tour Sallière and Mont Ruan beyond it (see 1:5). TMB walkers crossing the pass descend to either Trient or Col de la Forclaz (see above) in another 2–2½hrs by a steep but straightforward route.

        The ascent of Pointe des Ecandies (2873m) south of the Fenêtre d’Arpette may be made without major difficulties in about 1hr from the pass.

        In winter Col des Ecandies makes a worthwhile ascent on snowshoes – but only when conditions are stable, as the walling slopes of Val d’Arpette are prone to avalanche after snowfall (see Snowshoeing: Mont Blanc & the Western Alps).

        The traverse of the Ecandies ridge, from Col des Ecandies to Pointe des Ecandies, or on to the Fenêtre d’Arpette (D, with two moves of V), is a classic route recommended by Rébuffet in his well-known Mont Blanc Massif – 100 Finest Routes.

        By using the La Breya chairlift from just above Champex, the approach to Cabane d’Orny (2826m) can be achieved in 2–2½hrs by an obvious path along the rocky upper slopes of the Combe d’Orny. Owned by the Diablerets section of the SAC, the hut has places for 86, with a resident guardian from early June to mid-September (www.cabanedorny.ch). From there Cabane du Trient is reached in 1hr, and Pointe d’Orny (3269m) can be climbed by the NE Couloir (PD+) in about 3hrs.