The Swiss Alps. Kev Reynolds

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        Cime de l’Est (3177m) is arguably the most impressive of all the peaks, but standing at the northeastern end of the chain (thus being the farthest from Val d’Illiez) it is seen at its best from the Rhône valley side where its triangular NE (St Maurice) Face tapers to a sharp point some 2800m above the valley. First climbed in October 1943 by André Roch, with P Bonnant and R Aubert, this remains one of the peak’s classic routes, graded TD. The voie normale (PD+) is by the West Ridge, while a direct ascent of the Arête de Valère (North Ridge) foiled a number of parties before Chris Bonington, John Harlin and Rusty Baillie achieved its first full ascent in August 1965, a route now reckoned to be TD+ and accessible by a short approach from the unmanned Chalin refuge.

        La Forteresse (3164m) is a double summited tower situated above the Col de la Cime de l’Est, first climbed in 1870 by one of the district’s greatest advocates, Emile Javelle, with J Oberhauser. Their route, by the East Ridge (F), is today’s voie normale, while more challenging climbs are to be had on the NW Couloir (AD) and the Soi Ridge/NW Face (AD+).

        La Cathédrale (3160m) is the twin of La Forteresse, from which it is separated by a gap containing the Aiguillete Délez, named after the guide who made the first ascent in 1890. The popular Cathédrale-Forteresse traverse is graded AD, as is the SE Face, but the Délez Couloir goes at PD+. Rising from the Fenêtre de Soi, which separates the Cathédrale from L’Eperon, the SW Ridge rewards with one of the classic climbs of the Dents du Midi chain, an exposed 150m route first climbed in 1928 and now graded D, IV.

        L’Eperon (3144m) rises above the secondary summit of the Petit Eperon by way of a series of rock steps which appear saw-like from the Val d’Illiez. The easiest route is by way of the SW Ridge above the Col de l’Eperon; the NE Ridge provides a traverse of the two summits at AD, while the NW Face is said to attract attention in winter.

        Dent Jaune (3186m) is the elegant yellow thumb-like projection standing proud above the deep gap of the Col de la Dent Jaune, on the other side of which rise the Doigts de Champéry and de Salanfe. Originally there were two summits here, but one of these collapsed in the 19th century. The voie normale begins at the deep col mentioned above, cuts diagonally across the SE Face to join the NE Ridge, then follows this to the summit. Known as the Vire aux Genevois it was first climbed in 1894 by Georg and Malsch, and is now graded AD.

        Doigts de Champéry and de Salanfe (3210m, 3205m) are grouped together with a secondary point known as the Pouce. Stonefall is a major concern here, especially in the Couloirs des Doigts, du Pouce and Dent Jaune. The NNE Face of the Doigt de Champéry offers the most challenging of the routes; a long and serious TD- climb pioneered by Lugon and Ramel in August 1937.

        Haute Cime du Dents du Midi (3257m), despite being the highest of the group, its summit is easily reached by little more than a steep 2–2½hr walk from Col de Susanfe – ‘very fatiguing, but without danger to the sure-footed,’ is how Baedeker described the route from the col. First climbed (solo) in 1788 by local Val d’Illiez priest, J M Clément, the panorama from the summit is simply stunning, so much so that it has often been said that all climbers should visit it at least once in their lives. All the major peaks of the northern Alps are visible; in 1901 Baedeker said of it: ‘The view of Mont Blanc and the Alps of the Valais and Bern is imposing; the background to the S is formed by the Alps of Dauphiné and Piedmont; the Lake of Geneva is visible from Villeneuve to Vevey.’

        Whilst routes to individual summits have their obvious attraction, one of the classic outings of the group is the Traverse of the Dents du Midi (D, IV). Starting from a base at the Auberge de Salanfe, this magnificent expedition is reckoned to require around 15hrs in all, under good conditions. First achieved in a southwest–northeast direction in 1893 by one-time President of the Alpine Club, J P Farrar, with the guides Pierre-Louis Délez and Daniel Maquignaz, the traverse is said to be considerably easier when tackled from east to west (AD, III+). Though normally attempted in summer, it was first completed solo in winter in 1974, but the route still demands to be taken seriously, for the ridge is over 3km long and prior knowledge of individual sections would be a great benefit to anyone considering tackling what is, after all, one of the finest outings of its grade in the Alps.