Ecrins National Park. Kev Reynolds

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Other Valley Bases

      Travelling upvalley from Le Bourg, rooms are available in MONT-DE-LANS above Lac de Chambon, and at LE FRENEY D'OISANS at the western end of the lake. Le Freney also has a campsite (open mid-June to mid-Sept), while nearby MIZOËN, on a variante of GR54, has a gîte d'étape and a two-star hotel. At the small village of LES FRÉAUX (1389m), a short distance below La Grave, there's one hotel, a gîte d'étape and a campsite. On the steep hillside above the village, the hamlets of LES TERRACES and LE CHAZELET both have gîtes and apartments for rent, while Le Chazelet also has one hotel, Le Relais d'Emparis (one star). On the same hillside VENTELON also has a single hotel, La Chaumine, as does VALFROIDE (Les 3 Évéchés).

Mountain Huts

      A number of huts are located on mountains and hillsides within reach of the Vallée de la Romanche. Some are clearly the preserve of climbers, due to their position, although most are accessible to walkers.

      REFUGE DE L'ALPE DE VILLAR D'ARÈNE (2079m) is owned by the Briançon section of the CAF (Club Alpin Français). Set among pastures on the route of GR54 near Col d'Arsine, the refuge is manned in springtime and from mid-June to early Sept, with a full meals service. It has 94 places, and is reached by a walk of about 2¼hrs from Villar d'Arène ( 04 76 79 94 66 www.refugealpearene.fr).

      REFUGE DU PAVÉ (2841m) is a small hut with 26 places, also owned by the Briançon section of the CAF. Located by Lac du Pavé at the head of the Cavales valley, about 3½-4hrs walk from Alpe de Villar d'Arène, the hut is manned and with meals provision from the end of June to the beginning of Sept. For reservations 04 92 24 88 03 (www.clubalpin.com).

      REFUGE ADÈLE PLANCHARD (3169m) stands high on the Crête de Roche Méane, southwest of Alpe de Villar d'Arène, from which it is gained in 4–4½hrs. Owned by the STD (Societe des Touristes du Dauphiné) the refuge has 64 places and is manned during the high summer, when meals are provided ( 04 76 79 92 14 www.std-montagne.fr).

      REFUGE DE L'AIGLE (3450m) is reached by a notoriously steep climb of around 6½hrs, some of the way on a seriously crevassed glacier. Built upon a rock spur dividing the glaciers Tabuchet and de l'Homme on the Meije, this is almost exclusively a climber's hut, but details are given here for interest. Owned by the CAF (Briançon) it can sleep 20, and has a guardian in residence during spring and summer offering a simple meals service ( 04 76 79 92 32).

      REFUGE EVARISTE CHANCEL (2506m) is privately owned, has 39 places and is manned throughout the year with meals provided. Set on a rocky shelf above Lac du Puy Vachier on the slopes of Le Râteau, the refuge is gained by a walk of 3–3½hrs from La Grave, or about 1hr 15mins from the Gare de Peyrou d'Amont (middle station) of the téléphérique ( 04 76 79 92 32 www.refuge-chancel.com).

      REFUGE RIF TORT (2240m) stands outside the National Park on the northern side of the valley near the beautiful Plateau d'Emparis (Plateau de Paris), about 4½hrs 40 walk from Mizoën. Privately owned, it can sleep 36 and is open at weekends from May to mid-June, then permanently until mid-Sept, followed by weekends only, if reserved in advance, until the end of Oct. Restaurant service ( 04 76 80 24 11).

      Near the headwaters of La Romanche (Route 17)

ROUTE 1

      Huez (1440m) – Le Rosay (1550m) – Bourg d'Oisans (720m)

Start	Huez (1440m)
Distance	8km
Total Ascent	126m
Total Descent	846m
Grade	3
Time	2½hrs
Location	Northeast of Bourg d'Oisans

      Rising at a 2000m col east of Alpe d'Huez, the Vallon de Sarenne flows westward between dome-shaped mountains, some of which have been adopted by downhill skiers. Where the valley makes a kink to the south, the river has carved a profound gorge, above which a string of small villages and hamlets catch the sunshine among meadows on its east bank. This walk first descends into the gorge, then climbs out of it to visit four of these villages before tackling a steep cliff where fixed cables safeguard the way down and along a series of narrow ledges – a real sting in the tail at the end of the walk. Because of this unavoidable finish (an exciting section) a warning is given that it should not be attempted by anyone without a good head for heights, or confidence on exposed rocks.

      Take the bus from Bourg d'Oisans to Huez, an attractive village set on a steep hillside just below Alpe d'Huez, some 9km from Bourg. From the bus stop walk back down the road for about 40m, then take a track cutting sharply back to the left, signed for the Gorge de Sarenne. Contouring along the gorge's wooded upper rim, after 10mins take a path sloping down to the right. When the path forks 2mins later, take the right branch and in a few paces you will come to the old stone-built Pont Romain (1424m).

      Cross the bridge and climb the wooded south slope to gain a high point with a direct view across the gorge to Huez. After descending briefly, the path then continues to the head of the slope, crosses meadows and enters the charming hamlet of Le Rosay (1550m), where there's a tiny chapel, some pretty renovated stone houses, and a view of Bourg d'Oisans.

      Walk through the hamlet and continue on a tarmac road to Maronne, beyond which you come to Le Châtelard (1448m) in which there's a restaurant, La Fôret de Maronne. Keep on the road below this village, turning a few bends until about 15mins from Le Châtelard, waymarks on a tree direct you down a series of wooden steps to a forest path which you then follow to the left. About 7mins later come to the road again at a hairpin bend. Do not go onto the road, but take the continuing path descending the wooded slope.

      At a path junction by a wooden cross, take the lower route curving to the right. It's a mostly well-graded path that eventually brings you to the road again. Cross directly ahead, and in a few paces you will arrive beside the mairie of La Garde d'Oisans on the ledge of La Ville (1031m). Note the plaque on the wall of the mairie recalling the burning of the village in 1944 by occupying troops.

      Turn left along the narrow road, and passing the village washplace, it eventually becomes a track leading to a house. Just before the house, take a narrow footpath descending among trees on the right. Twisting across grass slopes, among trees and over rocks, it soon provides a direct view of Bourg d'Oisans. Then you come to a series of rock slabs where the path is protected in places by lengths of fixed cable that offer a degree of support where the slabs are perhaps smooth from use, or outward sloping – caution required. The path is exposed here and there, with a campsite swimming pool directly below, suggesting that should you slip you will land among the swimmers!

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