Italy's Sibillini National Park. Gillian Price

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      Fresh spring water, a boon for thirsty walkers

      Note: despite the widespread limestone rock base in the Sibillini, a remarkable number of life-giving springs can be found. Essential to generations of herders for watering their flocks at remote pastures, for walkers the fonti (springs) offer delicious cool refreshment during a hot summer. Springs are marked on maps with a blue water droplet.

      However, they can not always be relied upon as prolonged dry weather and channelling for local water supplies have diminished flows. Moral: always carry an abundant supply of drinking water.

Accommodation

      There’s a good scattering of reasonably priced family-run hotels, cosy guesthouses and a couple of rifugi walkers’ huts across the Sibillini. In this guide each walk comes complete with contact details of handy places to stay.

      The long-distance GAS trek uses mostly rifugi – hostels set in quiet hamlets. Without exception these are excellent structures owned by the park authority – mostly modernised, converted farm buildings which operate by contract from approximately mid-April through to mid-October. They have nice dormitories, hot showers and provide all meals, including packed lunches on request. Bed linen and towels are available for a few extra euros for those who prefer to carry a little less weight. Always phone ahead to reserve your bed, especially early and late in the season as some shut up ahead of schedule. Moreover, at quiet times the kitchen may close for a rest day, though staff will redirect guests to a neighbourhood restaurant.

      Other privately-operated rifugi come in handy in the Sibillini – examples are tiny Rifugio Città di Amandola on the eastern slopes, convivial Rifugio degli Alpini at the Forca di Presta road pass, and helpful Rifugio Casali at the base of Monte Bove Nord, without forgetting spartan but strategically located Rifugio Fargno. These too have dorm accommodation, hot showers and meals, unless specified otherwise. Be aware that maps show other huts with the rifugio denomination – such as Rifugio Zilioli on Monte Vettore and Capanna Ghezzi out of Castelluccio. Old herders’ huts, basic and unmanned, they belong to CAI for its members – see Walks 16 and 17 for contact info.

      Additionally a number of hotels of varying categories are listed. Many offer a half-board (mezza pensione) option which covers your overnight stay plus a three-course dinner (drinks may not be included) and continental breakfast. Off season it’s worth enquiring about special offers or lower rates, as occupancy out of the July–August period is not exactly sky high.

      If your Italian isn’t up to phone calls, once in the Sibillini it’s a good idea to get rifugio or hotel staff to phone to book your accommodation for the days ahead. But do remember to cancel bookings if your plans change! Should the need arise, don’t hesitate to ask to be picked up from – or dropped off at – the nearest town or bus stop. Some establishments will do it as a favour to guests but assume it’s a taxi service and offer payment.

      Accommodation on offer

      Hotel Felycita at Frontignano (Walk 8)

      If you wish to set off early in the morning – usually a good idea in hot weather – settle your bill in the evening, and see if the staff where you are staying are prepared to leave a breakfast tray and thermos out for you.

      In general do not assume anyone accepts credit cards and have a supply of euro cash on hand. Main towns including Balzo di Montegallo, Fiastra, Norcia, Visso and Castel-santangelo have ATMs.

      If you don’t mind carrying the extra weight, camping out is a wonderful way to explore the Sibillini and gives you the chance to spend more time in the high places. While it is officially forbidden in the realms of the park, it is tolerated for discrete single overnight stays from dusk to dawn. Otherwise base yourself at one of the camping grounds listed here:

       Balzo di Montegallo: Camping Vettore, Strada San Nicola 15 0736 807007 open Easter to early Jan www.campingvettore.it

       Calcara near Ussita: TGS Amici Colorito 0737 99443, and Estate Inverno 0737 99448.

       Castelvecchio near Preci: Campeggio Il Collaccio 0743 939005, open April–Sept www.ilcollaccio.com

       Fiastra: Campeggio al Lago 0737 52295

       Schianceto above Castelsantangelo sul Nera: Camping Monte Prata 0737 970062, open 15/6–15/9, www.campingmonteprata.it

      Shopping for lunch at Visso market

Food and Drink

      Pasta is the natural starting point for this important section. Proudly home-made fresh ribbons or luscious thin strips feature high on menus as tagliatelle or tagliolini. Smothering sauces include funghi (local wild mushrooms, unfailingly delicious), ragù, hearty meat sauce, and amatriciana, a spicy stew of pancetta (bacon), tomatoes and onions. Meat is naturally high-profile food in these mountainous areas, notably as a secondo course. Wild boar (cinghiale) may be offered in umido (stewed). Don’t be put off by the offer of castrato which means a type of tender lamb. Delicious when barbecued and sprinkled with herbs and olive oil, it is eaten with the hands. Grigliata mista is mixed grilled meat, generally pollo (chicken), СКАЧАТЬ