Trekking in the Zillertal Alps. Allan Hartley
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Название: Trekking in the Zillertal Alps
Автор: Allan Hartley
Издательство: Ingram
Жанр: Книги о Путешествиях
isbn: 9781849658898
isbn:
As the name suggests, the Rucksack Route can be traversed entirely without crossing glaciers and without specialist climbing skills. However, it does involve negotiating steep ground, crossing late summer snow and making use of fixed wire ropes here and there that are installed to aid stability. To climb some of the peaks described in the ‘Excursion’ sections of the guide, it is necessary to make glacier crossings, for which the required skills and kit are essential (see ‘Alpine walking skills and equipment’ below).
The Zillertal South Tyrol Tour (ZSTT) is virtually unknown outside the South Tyrol, which is one of the key ingredients that helps to make it interesting and different. The tour starts from the Bergbauernhof farmstead at Touristenraste, not far from the small industrial town of Steinach am Brenner. From Touristenraste it first progresses to the Geraer Hut, and then enters the Zillertal and South Tyrol proper at Pfitscherjoch Haus on the border with Italy. (Conveniently, Pfitscherjoch Haus also provides an alternative starting point for those wishing to join the tour from Mayrhofen and the Zillertal valley.) From Pfitscherjoch Haus the tour heads for the historic Hochfeiler Hut, and continues by way of the Edelraute, Nevesjoch and Schwarzenstein Huts before returning to Austria across the Schwarzensteinkees or Floitenkees glaciers to either the Berliner or Greizer Hut. From both huts, there is access to Mayrhofen and onward transport.
Excluding the peaks, this gives a continuous hut-to-hut tour of eight days, with good opportunities along the way to climb the Hochfeiler and Grosser Moseler, two of the Zillertal’s most prestigious mountains. Overall the tour is about 55km long and ascends just over 5000m (without considering climbing any peaks). It is physically demanding and will perhaps appeal to more experienced alpine walkers who wish to undertake a tour that is more remote and challenging.
The Zillertal’s highest peak is the Hochfeiler (3510m), and there are a further 40 peaks over 3000m, many of which are glaciated or have permanent snow cover. The Zillertal arena provides ample opportunity for all mountain enthusiasts. It is ideal for first-time visitors to the Alps (with the ZRR being particularly suitable for capable family groups with children) and for aspiring alpinists.
However, it should be remembered that the Zillertal is not necessarily a tame area in comparison with the Western Alps, as these mountains can challenge even the most experienced. Whatever your aspirations, you will not be disappointed.
Gruss Gott und sehr gut Zillerbergtouren.
When to go
The Hochfeiler (3510m), highest peak in the Zillertal (end of STT Stage 3)
The summer season usually starts in mid-June, when the huts open, and ends in late September, when the huts close. During this time the paths and passes are relatively free of snow.
June is early season and not the best time to visit, as it is not unusual to come across large amounts of old snow lying on north-facing slopes, such as those of the Lapen Scharte.
In July, the weather is warmer and the winter snow further recedes, although there are more people in the mountains and at the huts.
August is seen as the peak season when most Europeans take their holidays. The huts are at their busiest. The weather is at its most settled, although it is not unusual to see cloud build up late in the mornings and thunderstorms in the evenings. August is when most of the villages in the Zillertal hold their summer church festivals known as Kirchtags. They are extremely good fun, and it is well worth a visit to villages such as Stumm and Finkenberg, where the village will be set up with market stalls, street entertainment, local crafts and lots of music for a good day out, to be thoroughly enjoyed by all.
September announces the onset of autumn. The weather will be cooler and the huts quieter as they head towards the end of the season.
For a two-week holiday, the middle of July or the first two weeks in September are recommended.
Getting there
Getting to Austria is relatively straightforward no matter how you decide to travel. For the ZRR your first point of contact with the Zillertal valley is at the major road and railway intersection at the industrial town of Jenbach, in the Inn valley. Thereafter, the 50km (30-mile), 1hr journey up the Zillertal valley by road or rail leads to the resort town of Mayrhofen, the starting point of the ZRR (and the alternative start point for the ZSTT). Those undertaking the ZSTT need to head to Innsbruck, the provincial capital of Tyrol, before continuing by regional train to the small town of Steinach am Brenner, near the start point of the tour. (See Appendix C for a glossary of useful German–English travel words and phrases.)
By air (and rail)
Even if you travel by air, which is the quickest way to get to Austria and the Zillertal, for those undertaking the ZRR there is not always sufficient time to leave the United Kingdom in the early morning, catch a train to Jenbach and Mayrhofen, and then travel on to one of the huts before nightfall. It is better to stay overnight in Mayrhofen and then continue your journey the day after. However, if you are travelling light and have no hold-ups, it is just about possible to get to the Edel Hut by early evening. Similarly, for those undertaking the ZSTT it is better to stay overnight in Innsbruck or Steinach am Brenner.
Munich is the main entry point (from London, Manchester, Birmingham), but flights also go to Salzburg and Innsbruck (from London). Some of the major operators, particularly Lufthansa, have several flights a day from London, Manchester and Birmingham. Other budget carriers also operate from Luton, Gatwick and Stansted. (See Appendix B for airline websites.)
Although travelling by air gets you to mainland Europe quickly, you may lose precious time transferring to the railway station, the Hauptbahnhof, and may experience frustrating delays and hold-ups just finding your way about.
At Munich, the airport connects direct with the regional railway network, where there are frequent trains every 30mins or so. Follow the train signs DB and S. You need a pre-paid ticket before getting on the train. Do not push your luck without a ticket, as the Germans do not take kindly to freeloaders no matter where they come from. Be warned. There is a railway booking office in the airport arrivals hall adjacent to the concession counters for car hire, hotel reservations and so on. This facility is not always open, but if it is get your ticket to Jenbach hin und zuruck (there and back) if you are coming back the same way. There are frequent express trains every 2hrs or so. Once on your journey, get off the regional train at Munchen Ost (Munich East), listen to the announcements, and change platforms to get on one of the inter-city trains (schnell zug). Look out for the matrix sign boards at the station and on the side of the train, and get on the first one that has Innsbruck on it or Brennero, Venezia or Venedig – anything heading into Italy or Switzerland will do, as they all have to go via Jenbach.
If the ticket office is closed at Munich airport you can get your ticket at Munich East – the ticket office is at road level with other shops and fast food outlets. With express trains it is also possible to pay on the train, sometimes at a premium, if you can show that you had to rush and didn’t have enough time to get to the ticket office.
Railway tickets may also be purchased in advance and online by visiting www.bahn.de. There is a thumbnail Union Flag icon for English speakers to click.
At Jenbach, there is a local bus service and a narrow-gauge railway to the roadhead at Mayrhofen. This journey takes about 1hr. The last train to Mayrhofen is at 19.44, and the last bus at 21.08.