The GR20 Corsica. Paddy Dillon

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      The picture on the left was taken towards the end of May and the GR20, up the gully, is heavily covered in snow; the one on the right was taken towards the end of July and the snow has gone

      June

      The PNRC refuges and private bergeries will all be fully staffed and in full operation. This used to be a quiet time to trek, but in recent years it has become very busy. The refuges will often be fully booked, and any hire tents pitched nearby might also be fully booked. Food supplies and cooked meals will be available at almost every overnight stop.

      Bear in mind that some snow and ice will still be lurking in some of the more sunless gullies, and could pose problems early in the month. Days will be warm, but not too hot. Some bus services to and from the route might not be fully operational.

      July and August

      These are the peak summer months on the GR20. Expect large numbers of trekkers and expect the refuges and hire tents to be fully booked. All services are in full swing and it is easy to obtain food and drink along the way. Bear in mind that a few seasonal water sources dry up. Should it be necessary to leave or join the route at any point, the full range of summer bus services will be available.

      This is also the hottest time of the year, with an increasing risk of afternoon thunderstorms. There have been devastating forest fires in the past around this time, closing parts of the route to trekkers.

      September

      This used to be a quiet time of year, when the numbers of trekkers reduced, but in recent years it has remained quite busy. The refuges will probably be fully booked, as may the hire tents, but as the month progresses it might be possible to stay indoors without an advance booking. Some of the bergeries offering food and drink may close, and some of the bus services to and from the route will be withdrawn. It is usual for the PNRC refuges to remain fully staffed and supplied with food to the end of the month.

      The days are cooler than the peak summer season, but remain warm and clear. After June, this is the best month to trek.

      October

      The PNRC refuges remain open, but are unstaffed and have no food supplies. While fuel might be available, it is best not to rely on it, and the water supply might be disconnected to avoid frost damage. Private bergeries will be locked and bolted, and any small food stores along the route will probably be closed, so it will be necessary to carry food, or leave the route at intervals to obtain supplies. Very few bus services will be available, although the train through Vizzavona continues running.

      Those who start the GR20 at the beginning of the month and aim to complete it by the middle of the month will experience cold nights and possibly frosts. After mid-October, snow could fall at any time. Snow obscures paths and waymarks, and when it accumulates on steep slopes, there is immediately a risk of avalanche. For ordinary trekkers, the route is closed throughout the winter, although ski-traverses are sometimes achieved.

How to trek

      The main route

      The most straightforward way to trek the GR20 is north to south, on the main red/white flashed waymarked trail from Calenzana to Conca, taking about two weeks to cover the distance. Be sure to build in a couple of spare days just in case they are needed. Note that whenever alternative routes are presented in this guide, the ‘A’ route is the main, or classic, route of the GR20.

      GR20 nord

      It is possible to trek the northern section of the trail from Calenzana to Vizzavona in just over a week, maybe nine or ten days, and experience the most rugged highlights of the route. For those who are confident of their abilities, this is worth considering if time is limited.

      GR20 sud

      Those who are wary of the level of difficulty involved on the higher parts could sample a week on the southern section from Vizzavona to Conca and reserve judgement on the northern section. This stretch also has its tough moments from time to time, so be warned!

      South to north

      Although most people trek the GR20 from north to south, experiencing the toughest sections first, it is also possible to trek from south to north, thereby gradually building up to the most rugged and spectacular parts of the route. An increasing number of trekkers now cover part of the GR20, or all of it, in this direction.

      Alternatives

      Note that there are sometimes high- and low-level alternatives along the way. This provides trekkers with a choice of route. Sometimes the main route is the low-level one, and sometimes the high-level route can be a bit easier than the low-level route. Alternative routes are fully described in this guidebook in exactly the same detail as the main route. Note that whenever alternative routes are presented in this guide, the ‘A’ route is the main route and the ‘B’ route is the variant.

      Links

      Trekkers who complete the whole of the GR20 sometimes regret that they didn’t visit some of the villages off-route. This guidebook includes off-route links with a handful of villages, so that at least a little Corsican culture can be enjoyed. These links also allow trekkers to leave the route if time is limited, with onward transport services mentioned.

      Mountains

      The hardiest enthusiasts could trek the whole of the GR20 and include a handful of mountain peaks along the way. Some of the prominent peaks close to the route can be climbed with a little scrambling. Those trekking the GR20 and climbing a few extra peaks should allow about three weeks. Details of the more popular extra ascents are given in this guidebook, including some of the highest mountains in Corsica.