Walking on Harris and Lewis. Richard Barrett

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      Ceapabhal and Taobh Tuath (Northton) from the summit of Greaval

      Head off north-west to cross a boggy bealach (Gaelic for pass or col) and gain a second cairned summit marked with a spot height of 339m. Continue heading north-west, keeping to the drier and easier walking along the ridge on the left until you reach the flatter ground at Toe Head. The return route takes you clockwise along the coast and if you want a diversion, you could visit the natural sea arches around the headland. There are four sea arches in total, but only two are marked on the Landranger series of maps.

      Unless it has been dry for some time, the going can be quaggy all the way until Sgeir Leomadail. The word ‘quaggy’ probably describes much of the low-level terrain of Harris and Lewis better than any other. The word ‘boggy’ suggests that you run the risk of getting your feet and lower legs plastered in mud or black peat and in certain areas this can undoubtedly happen. But for the most part, the underlying layers of peat and moss mean that the ground is just springy and yielding (quaggy). It is best to move fast across such terrain, because if you stand still for too long, you are sure to sink into it and get a wet foot. But the views of the Harris Hills and the prospect of wildlife more than compensate for the possibility of a sodden sock.