Winter Climbs in the Cairngorms. Allen Fyffe

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      INTRODUCTION

      The major climbing venues of the Cairngorms provide some of the finest winter routes in Britain. From the remote corries of Braeriach and Beinn a’Bhuird to the magnificent cliffs of Lochnagar and Creag an Dubh Loch and the readily accessible Northern Corries of Cairn Gorm, every aspect of winter climbing is to be found here. There are long, varied routes and short technical test-pieces; there are pure ice climbs as well as mixed routes to rival any in the country. Building on previous editions, this guide offers a selection of the best routes in each area – and, where possible, routes of all grades are given. Where there is a variety of routes, a number of climbs at a similar standard are detailed to allow for some choice should conditions or availability dictate a change in plan. Many of the routes follow fairly natural lines which, once embarked upon, should be relatively easy to follow, the exception being some of the more recent hard mixed routes which require a more detailed description.

      Scottish winter climbing can be a hazardous pastime. The weather is often unfavourable and can change with startling suddenness, transforming a pleasant excursion into a battle for survival. Too many people have underestimated these mountains and paid the ultimate price. It is essential to be well equipped – both physically and mentally – before setting off on a winter route. Having the correct equipment must be accompanied by the ability to use it properly. When the weather, the conditions and the climb are right, then winter climbing in the Cairngorms can offer an unforgettable experience.

Conditions

      Good climbing conditions can occur in this area at any time between November and April, although February and March tend to be the most reliable months. In some years winter climbs can be in condition as early as October and as late as May. Winter ascents have even been made in June!

      Part of the challenge of winter climbing is correctly predicting climbing conditions and choosing suitable objectives accordingly. Knowing when, for example, it is better to go for a buttress route rather than a gully, or whether to push your grade or try something well within your capabilities, can make the difference between a great day’s climbing and an unpleasant and potentially dangerous expedition. However, predicting conditions can be tricky, especially for those based far from the mountains. Observing and learning how the weather affects the climbs is the first stage – how much thaw and refreeze is required to produce good ice, how long it takes for the turf to freeze and for the rocks to rime up, whether the ice will be hard and brittle or soft and plastic. In the past this knowledge was often hard-won, with many climbing trips ending in disappointment due to poor conditions in the chosen venue. These days, however, with a plethora of up-to-date conditions blogs, web cams and winter-climbing forums, it is easier to stay well informed on current conditions, especially for popular areas.