Winter Climbs in the Cairngorms. Allen Fyffe
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Название: Winter Climbs in the Cairngorms
Автор: Allen Fyffe
Издательство: Ingram
Жанр: Спорт, фитнес
isbn: 9781849654982
isbn:
| Aladdin’s Couloir | 180m I |
A Henderson and EM Davidson, 24 March 1935
The large dog-leg gully which flanks the left side of Aladdin’s Buttress. There may be a small ice pitch at the bend. Sometimes a good ice pitch develops on the left wall just by the bend. Above this the gully widens, and at a col above Aladdin’s Seat is joined by Aladdin’s Mirror.
| Original Route | 100m IV,5** |
W March and B Manson, 13 February 1972
Lies on the left side of the buttress and overlooks Aladdin’s Couloir. Start 5m above and right of the toe of the long narrow rib that forms the lowest rocks on the left of the buttress. Climb a shallow corner with a couple of moves on its right to a prominent flake, well seen in profile from the right, and continue to a large snow ramp running up the flank of the buttress. From the top of the ramp climb up to some big blocks, then take the obvious line going up and left in a series of steps on the wall overlooking Aladdin’s Couloir. An alternative start begins at the foot of the lowest rock and climbs a groove onto the crest V,6.
| The Lamp | 100m V,6* |
A Liddell and party, January 1988
A zig-zag line up the left side of Aladdin’s Buttress. Start at an open corner just right of the long rib of rock. Climb the open corner, some time moving onto the right wall, to its top. Go diagonally right on the obvious ramp to gain the large central bay. Take the diagonal fault leading left to easier ground and the top of the buttress and a choice of finishes.
George McEwan on The Prodigal Principal, Right-Hand Start
| The Prodigal Principal | 100m V,5 |
G Reid and J Lyall, 19 November 1985
An ice route dependent on freeze–thaw for its formation. Start left of Doctor’s Choice at ice runnels going up slabs and ramps before moving leftwards to a snow bay where Doctor’s Choice is joined. Ice lines can also develop at either side of the usual first pitch, which give alternative starts. From the main bay climb the narrow chimney left of the big corner of Doctor’s Choice, a good pitch.
| Doctor’s Choice | 105m IV,5** |
W March and N Dilley, 12 February 1972
A good climb which takes a huge detour to reach the largest left-facing corner in the upper part of the buttress. Start below this upper corner and climb the fault up to just below the big cave, sometimes on ice, and belay in top-left corner of the cave. Move down and go left onto the rib and follow the diagonal break left for a pitch into a snow bay. Leave this first bay on the right and gain easy ground. Go right and finish up the big corner, which is better with ice. If there is little ice, the narrow chimney of The Prodigal Principal provides a fine alternative finish.
| Doctor Janis | 130m V,7* |
J Grosset, J Lyall and A Nolan, 4 April 1987
Takes a series of corners on the right of the big fault of Doctor’s Choice. Start on the right side of the bay below Doctor’s Choice. Climb the main groove slanting right, cross an overlap and continue up to the steep wall at about mid-height. Take a slanting groove/ramp cutting back left to a ledge. Return right and gain the upper groove, which slants back rightwards.
In icy conditions a combination of the lower groove of Doctor Janis and the upper groove of The Genie gives a very fine icy climb at about V,6.
| The Genie | 110m V,7*** |
G Smith and G Ball, 1979
The central of the three main corners right of Doctor’s Choice gives a good climb. Start at the foot of Patey’s Route and follow the lower of the slabby ramps going left and then open corners to where the cliff steepens up. A short crack running up to below a roof leads into a left-facing corner. This is climbed to a stance below the main corner, which is followed to the top of the buttress.
| The Magic Crack | 90m VII,7** |
A Huber and A Mullin, 10 March 1999; A Cunningham and A Nisbet, 7 December 1985 (White Magic)
Takes the eye-catching thin crack right of The Genie. Climb The Genie for two pitches to the belay below its main corner (50m). Traverse right to gain the finger crack and follow it to the overlap and a belay on the left (20m). Strenuous but well protected. Gain a right-slanting crack over the overlap, then another crack leading back left to thin moves onto the final slab (20m). Finish easily or descend in two abseils from in situ gear. The original winter line (White Magic, VI,7) climbs the first three pitches as described. The fourth pitch traverses right under an overlap to a ledge, and then finishes up a narrow chimney.
The finger crack of The Magic Crack
| Salvation | 100m VI,7* |
S Aisthorpe and J Lyall, 27 December 1987
This route is on the cracked slabs right of The Magic Crack and main corner of Damnation, VI,6, the rightmost left-facing corner. Start at the foot of Patey’s Route and climb about 10m up the higher slabby ramp going left. Leave the ramp via a short chimney/groove then pass left of a short wall to a broad ramp. Break through the overlap above at some flakes and climb thin cracks up the slab. The overlap can also be climbed about 3m right of the flakes. Move up right to a block, then follow the continuation crack to the top.
| Patey’s Route | 120m IV,5** |
TW Patey, February 1959
The wide chimney on the right side of the buttress is very popular and a fairly reliable route. Generally, the more ice, the easier it is. There is bulge at about mid-height which is difficult, and a top chokestone is usually turned by going out left then returning right by a long move back right into the chimney line.
| Terms of Endearment | 100m III |
A Liddell and party, 1981
The buttress edge overlooking Patey’s Route. Climb the start of Patey’s Route a short way to just above the initial narrows, then traverse the ledge right to its end, then make a slabby move onto the front of the buttress, usually the crux (there has been a recent substantial rock fall just to the right). Once on the crest СКАЧАТЬ