The World of Sicilian Wine. Bill Nesto

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      UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESS

      BerkeleyLos AngelesLondon

      The publisher gratefully acknowledges the generous support of the General Endowment Fund of the University of California Press Foundation.

      University of California Press, one of the most distinguished university presses in the United States, enriches lives around the world by advancing scholarship in the humanities, social sciences, and natural sciences. Its activities are supported by the UC Press Foundation and by philanthropic contributions from individuals and institutions. For more information, visit www.ucpress.edu.

      University of California Press

      Berkeley and Los Angeles, California

      University of California Press, Ltd.

      London, England

      © 2013 by William R. Nesto and Frances Di Savino

      Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

      Nesto, Bill, 1951–

      The world of Sicilian wine / Bill Nesto and Frances Di Savino.

      p. cm.

      Includes bibliographical references and index.

      ISBN 978-0-520-26618-6 (cloth : alk. paper)

      eISBN 978-0-520-95507-3

      1. Wine and wine making—Italy—Sicily. 2. Wine and wine making—Italy—Sicily—History. 3. Sicily (Italy) I. Di Savino, Frances, 1960– II. Title.

      TP559.18N47 2013

      663’.2009458—dc23

      2012026490

      Manufactured in the United States of America

      22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13

      10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

      The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992 (R 2002) (Permanence of Paper).

      To our fathers and mothers,

      R. William and Antoinette Nesto

      &

      Sabino and Geraldine Di Savino,

      we dedicate this work,

      our labor of love

      Almost a year . . . a year in Sicily . . .

      a year that coursed so quickly . . .

      And what I now inscribe is but a trace,

      a vestige of the visions shared when we

      were wanderers in Sicily: for me,

      you made each pilgrim path a joyous journey.

      Ovid, Ex ponto 2.10 (“My Eyes,” translation by Allen Mandelbaum in Ovid in Sicily)

      CONTENTS

      List of Maps

      Acknowledgments

      Preface

       1. The Origins of Sicilian Wine and Culture

       2. The Lost Opportunity: 1775 to 1950

       3. The Modern Sicilian Wine Industry

       4. Perpetual Wine

       5. The Geography of Sicily

       6. Vine Varieties

       7. Viticulture in Sicily

       8. Enology in Sicily

       9. At the Heart of Sicily

      10. Understanding Sicilian Wine by Place: The Three Valleys

      11. Val di Mazara

      12. Val di Noto

      13. Val Demone

      14. The Garden-Vineyard

      Afterword

      Notes

      Selected Bibliography

      Index

      MAPS

       1. Wine areas of Sicily’s three valleys

       2. Val di Mazara—West

       3. Val di Mazara—East

       4. Val di Noto

       5. Val Demone

      ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

      We acknowledge and thank all of the Sicilians who have helped us in our research and travels. We are grateful to the Istituto Regionale Vini e Oli di Sicilia (IRVOS) and its director general, Dr. Dario Cartabellotta. The Region of Sicily’s dedicated team of enologists, agronomists, and other experts working in the field from Marsala to Mount Etna provided us with valuable insights and information. We also express our appreciation to Blake Edgar, Dore Brown, and Kate Marshall of University of California Press and to our copy editor Juliana Froggatt for their wise guidance and professionalism. To our mothers, Anne Sirugo Nesto and Geri Saporito Di Savino, and our cherished family and friends, we shall forever be grateful for your love and encouragement. Finally, we acknowledge and express our profound respect for the countless Sicilians—past, present, and future—who have tended their vines and sacrificed so very much for their magnificent land. It has been an honor to tell their story.

      Grazii da nostri cori pri sempri.

      PREFACE

      Frances Di Savino, my wife, and I explored the island of Sicily for two weeks in June of 2008. I was there to research an article about Sicilian wine. Fran was with me because СКАЧАТЬ