Perfect Pairings. Evan Goldstein

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СКАЧАТЬ style of a sparkling wine is ultimately determined by the amount of sweetening (sugar) added after disgorging and just before the wine is cork-finished (see the table above). This step determines how dry or sweet the wine actually is. In wine lingo this addition is referred to as the dosage (doh-sahj), and it is important in determining personal tastes as well as wine and food pairing. (For more on the sweet styles of sparkling wine, see the dessert wine journey.)

       FLAVORS

      Fruit: Cherry, lemon, lime, citrus (grapefruit, citron), apple (green, yellow), pear, pineapple, passion fruit, lychee, raspberry, strawberry, cucumber

      Floral: Honeysuckle, rose, gardenia, freesia, apple blossom, lime blossom, mint

      Earth: Mineral, chalk, dust, mushroom

      Extended age (tirage): Toast, brioche, French bread (baguette), biscuit, hazelnut, almond, walnut, vanilla wafer, nougat, gingerbread, dried fruit (fig, raisin), coffee

      Other: Yeast, dough/raw bread, soy, cream, Vegemite, plain yogurt, vanilla, honey, blond tobacco, melted butter

       WINE AND FOOD PAIRING

      Sparkling wine is like Rodney Dangerfield: it gets no respect, at least when it comes to pairing wine and food. I strongly believe that sparkling wine has a bigger role to play at the table than simply being sipped for a toast. Its brilliant combination of effervescence, ample acidity (tartness), and lighter weight (low alcohol) make for beautiful pairings. Add the dimension of the dosage, and bubbly can offer a range of pairing options.

      At bottom, sparkling wines are all about the fizz. The bubbles can contrast beautifully with the textures of deep-fried foods, puff pastry, or phyllo dough. The tactile play of the food's crackle and the wine's effervescence is satisfying in the mouth. And many pastry items incorporate plenty of butter, an ingredient that works well with sparkling wines. Additionally, the bubbles can counterbalance spicy heat (peppers).

      Next, the sharpness (acidity) is the perfect foil for preparations that are salty, thick or rich (such as cream sauces and many soft cheeses), or a little oily (fish, caviar, and fried foods). The nutty and toasty aromas that predominate in French styles and more developed or aged American and antipodean examples are excellent with sautéed dishes and those with “toasty” elements, such as grains, nuts, and especially corn.

      Sparkling wines that are more fruit-driven (especially those that come from the United States, Australia, and New Zealand) are very compatible with exotic and Asian cuisines such as Indian, Thai, Vietnamese, and Singaporean. Finally, if you're serving a dish that is relatively spicy, off-dry bubblies can be very enjoyable and help tame the heat.

      The fact that virtually all sparkling wines are produced without any oak makes for tremendous all-around flexibility, and the lighter weight and lower alcohol content also allow for a wide range of matching options.

       PAIRING POINTERS

       Bubbly works well:

      • To counterbalance salt, moderate heat, richness and cream, and grease, butter, and deep-fried foods.

      • To replace any other highlighting acid (citrus) with fish or shellfish.

      • To accompany raw fish—sushi, sashimi, oysters, ceviche, and some caviars.

      • To match tart foods: citrus and other tart fruits, vinegars, pomegranate, dill, capers, tomatoes, leeks, and zucchini.

      • To match many Latin dishes (such as empanadas, ceviche, and mole), and the cuisines of Florida, the Caribbean, and Hawaii. Especially successful are the fruit-forward styles from the United States, New Zealand, and Australia.

      • To match many Asian cuisines (Japanese sushi, tempura, and gyoza; Chinese deep-fried dishes, seafood dishes, and some poultry; Thai crepes, fish cakes, and some coconut-milk-based curries; Indian samosas and papadams). Again, the fruit-driven New World styles work best here.

      • To accompany many cheeses, especially hard cheeses like Parmesan, really rich cheeses (like triple-cream St. André) and salty cheeses (such as Greek or Bulgarian feta).

      • To match dishes with crunchy texture (phyllo pastry and deep-fried foods such as Southern fried chicken, tempura, and Italian fritto misto).

      • To harmonize with dishes that have an inherent toasty character, like the bubbly itself (toasted canapés or puff pastry dishes).

      • To accompany dishes that imply sweetness or have lightly sweet condiments or treatments. Again, New World styles work best.

      • To accompany foods difficult to match with other wines, such as egg dishes and soups.

      • To pair with rustic or coarsely textured foods: polenta, pesto, hummus, and baba ghanoush. Sparkling wine goes well with Middle Eastern foods in general.

       Bubbly isn't good with:

      • Extremes. Dishes that are too rich or flavorful squash its subtlety. Dishes that are too spicy eviscerate the wine.

      • Dishes that are too sweet (unless they are paired with the sweeter styles of wine).

      • Some strong-tasting fish, other strong flavors, and certain vegetables, especially bitter vegetables, which can make the wines taste metallic (broccoli, escarole, and radicchio).

      • With rich red meats. Many chefs pair rosé styles with these foods, but they are not always complementary.

      * Until recently, all U.S. producers of sparkling wines could legally use the term Champagne, but, counterintuitively, it usually denoted a cheap product. Under the terms of a 2005 U.S.-E.U. trade agreement, U.S. producers who have historically called their product Champagne may continue to use the term, but new producers may not. Almost all of the best U.S. producers who use the méthode traditionnelle label their wines as “sparkling wine.”

      FOR FRUIT-FORWARD, DRY BUBBLIES (BRUT-STYLE)

       CRAB SALAD IN ENDIVE LEAVES

      SERVES 4 TO 6

       cup mayonnaise, or as needed to bind1 tablespoon Dijon mustard½ pound crabmeat, picked over and cartilage removed cup finely diced celeryGrated zest of 1 lemon plus 1 to 2 tablespoons lemon juice2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsleySalt and freshly ground black pepper to tasteCayenne pepper to taste12 to 18 Belgian endive leaves

      In a large bowl, combine the mayonnaise and mustard, and then add the crabmeat, celery, lemon zest, lemon juice, chives, and parsley. Add the salt, black pepper, and cayenne pepper to taste. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve. (The crab salad can be prepared up to 1 day ahead of time, though it's better when served within 6 hours.)

      Just before serving, spoon the crab salad onto the endive leaves and arrange on a platter.

      VARIATION For an alternative presentation, spread the crab mixture on slices of toasted bread.

       This salad is an СКАЧАТЬ