Название: Escape to Africa
Автор: Henri Diamant
Издательство: Ingram
Жанр: Политические детективы
isbn: 9781934074107
isbn:
By the way, “Benguela” is also the name of the ocean current that draws icy waters from the South Ocean and carries them northward along the South West Coast of Africa. Because they release only small amounts of evaporation, these icy waters do not generate the heavy rain clouds that warmer ocean waters produce in other regions of the coast. Accordingly, the Benguela Current is responsible for the parching of South West Africa and is the primary cause for the Kalahari and Namib Deserts.
Once we climbed on board the train, we were shown to a nice Pullman compartment, with a washbasin and a small folding table. It was clean and appeared comfortable enough for a three-day journey. However, when we returned from the dining car later that evening, it had become quite cramped. The porter had turned the compartment into a sleeper for four, by locking the two top berths into their horizontal positions. During the day these berths were kept out of the way, flush against the side bulkheads, adding much room to the compartment.
One real drawback was the lack of a bathroom within the privacy of our compartment. We had to use the public shower and toilet in the passageway, at the end of the rail car. If it had not been for that, I would have felt right at home during that long trip.
Construction on the Benguela Railway started in 1903, but reached the Congo area only in 1928. The snail-like progress was caused by the ruggedness of the route. From Lobito, the line runs across a narrow coastal plain for some 30 to 40 miles, before it climbs abruptly up a steep escarpment to a large inland plateau, part of which tops out at 8,596 feet. That escarpment is so sheer that a five-mile stretch of the track had to be made into a rack-and-pinion section. Many years later that section was converted to a normal track, however, even with today’s powerful locomotives, lower loads must be used on that sheer grade.
The Benguela Railway had to resolve other difficulties.
One such difficulty was the problem of maintaining a steady supply of water for the trains. Sufficient supply was rather unreliable on the semi-arid plateau, and the railway had to drill deep wells to find adequate water for the passengers and thirsty locomotives.
Then there was the need for large stock-piles of firewood. That need was resolved by large plantations of fast growing eucalyptus trees that the railroad set up at various points along the route.
The first day in Africa tired me out completely. That night, I fell asleep before my head hit the pillow in one of the top berths of our compartment. The monotonous clicking of the wheels kept me in a very deep sleep, so much so that I did not witness the train’s laborious climb up the escarpment, and missed its final thrust upon the edge of the plateau. When I woke up, the train was winding its way through a panorama of grasslands, and the sun’s bright rays were bouncing brightly across our compartment.
After a solid breakfast, we settled on a daily routine that kept us pleasantly occupied over the whole journey. The meals in the dining car were totally enjoyable; the food and the service were excellent. For instance, I remember that we had, in addition to all kinds of African fruits (I love fruits), fresh strawberries that grow at certain elevations in the tropics. The waiters were well trained and quick to grin. In their impeccable white jackets and gloves, they kept pouring refreshments no matter how much time we spent at our table.
Whenever the train stopped to re-supply the locomotive with water and wood, natives swarmed up and down the tracks with woven baskets full of local fruits and small handicrafts that they tried to peddle before we resumed our trip. They hawked their wares to any passenger who leaned outside the window of his compartment. Moreover, a throng of persistent vendors would assail anyone who decided to step outside the Pullman. As might be expected, prices dropped the minute the whistle announced the imminent departure of the train.
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