Название: Solar Water Heating--Revised & Expanded Edition
Автор: Bob Ramlow
Издательство: Ingram
Жанр: Техническая литература
Серия: Mother Earth News Wiser Living Series
isbn: 9781550924497
isbn:
Figure 4.5: Tube-in-shell heat exchanger
AC Pumps
The traditional type of pump used in a solar water heating system is a 120-volt AC pump. These pumps are readily available in a variety of sizes and are also used in traditional hydronic heating systems. Because these pumps are mass produced, they are less expensive than specialty pumps designed for the solar industry. There are many manufacturers of these pumps, which come in a variety of configurations. These pumps are reliable and last for a long time. Because of their low price, many of these pumps are not field repairable, so when they break, they are just replaced. A few manufacturers make pumps called cartridge circulators. These have a cartridge inside the pump that can be replaced without having to take the whole pump housing (called the volute) out of the system when doing a repair. Some AC pumps have multiple speed settings so that the flow rate can be optimized for the system.
Figure 4.6: AC pump
DC Pumps
Many solar water heating systems are installed with a DC pump so that it can be powered directly by a solar electric or photovoltaic (PV) module. DC pumps come in three configurations: brush, brushless and electronically driven. This designation relates to the type of motor that drives the pump.
Brush-type motors use brushes made of carbon that contact the commutator, which is a cylinder in the motor. These brushes wear away over time and need to be replaced periodically. Brushless motors are electronically commutated and, obviously, have no brushes. Brushless motors work better in photovoltaic direct applications, but brush-type motors can work fine. Brush-type motors have a harder time starting up when powered directly from a PV panel. They will start, but not as quickly as brushless ones.
A linear current booster (LCB) can be installed between the PV collector and the brush-type motor to help the brush-type motor start more easily. LCBs need to be properly sized to match the PV collector and the pump, so do your homework if using an LCB.
Electronically driven DC pumps fall into the category of brushless pump, but they don’t have a conventional motor. These pumps use electronics to spin the impeller. Several brands of this type of pump have been developed specifically for the solar water heating industry, where low to moderate flows are required. One model even has built-in circuitry with maximum power point tracking (MPPT), which adjusts the voltage and current coming from the PV module to maximize the amount of power it is producing. Neat stuff.
Piping and Pipe Insulation Piping
The piping in a solar loop is subjected to a wide range of temperatures, varying from 300°F to–30°F (or lower). Copper tubing is the best kind of pipe to use for the solar loop. It can withstand this temperature range and is very durable and easy to install. Copper tubing comes in various grades and is classified by wall thickness and rigidity. Soft copper (annealed) can be bent; hard copper (drawn) is very rigid. The heavier the wall thickness, the more rigid it is. Type M copper tube is thin walled; type L is medium walled; and type K is heavy-walled. We suggest using type L for the solar-loop piping. Use type K for underground piping runs. We suggest using hard copper in all instances except underground piping runs. All types of copper pipe have the same exterior dimensions, so all fittings are made the same and come in one standard size for use with all types. However, the exte-rior diameter is actually ⅛” larger than its nominal designation.
Figure 4.7: DC Pump
It is important to use only copper pipe, or in some cases stainless steel, for the hot supply pipe in the solar loop. People often want to use a flexible product such as Pex tubing or rubber hose. These products will not last very long and will deteriorate well before the system wears out. In his repair business, Bob had to replace a lot of hoses that were used in the 1980s. Not a single installation from those days that used rubber hose is still operating in Wisconsin (to our knowledge). Pex tubing will also fail in a very short time. We know of several attempts to use Pex tubing for the hot supply line, and the failures were always within the first year. It is possible to use Pex tubing for the return line back to the collectors, but it is important to terminate the Pex at least 10 feet from the collectors. The Pex must never be used for an outside pipe run unless it is buried. We suggest that you consider Pex only for use in the solar loop when burying the return line out to a ground-mounted array.
There is one alternative to copper for use in the solar loop. In the past few years several solar companies have developed a corrugated stainless steel piping that is both flexible and durable enough to handle the high temperatures of a solar system. Its flexibility simplifies installation and significantly reduces labor costs. It typically comes in a long roll with both the supply and return lines encased in high temperature insulation. Often a sensor wire is also sandwiched in the center of the insulation.
Though the product has now been around long enough to have a proven track record, it has a couple of drawbacks. The corrugation that makes it flexible creates increased surface area inside the tubing and results in significantly more resistance to flow, or friction head. In some cases this may require the use of a larger pump and cause increased electricity operating costs. Be sure to factor in the friction losses when selecting and sizing the pump. At this point it is also more expensive, although much of this is offset with savings in labor. Overall, it is still a good product and a welcome addition to the solar professional’s toolkit.
Because of its flexibility, corrugated stainless tubing should never be used on a drainback system. The dips between the stainless links and sagging between pipe hangers will create pockets where solar fluid can accumulate. In a pressurized system, it may be necessary to flush or blow out the solar loop when replacing the fluid to ensure that all of the old liquid has been removed from the pipes.
Pipe Insulation
Pipe insulation comes in a wide variety of materials and specifications. Most kinds will not withstand the temperatures experienced in a solar loop; most plastic or rubber pipe insulation will melt right off. Only a few kinds of pipe insulation will work, and these are made specifically for high-temperature situations. We recommend that insulation should have a minimum continuous temperature rating of at least 250°F on the hot pipe coming off the collector to the heat exchanger, and a rating of at least 180°F on any other pipes on the solar loop. The material it is made of is not critical as long as the temperature rating meets the minimum standards. This will ensure that it retains its insulating value.
Fiberglass pipe insulation is great for all interior pipe runs but is unacceptable for exterior runs or buried runs because it will soak up moisture, become saturated and lose its insulation value. Some lower-temperature rubber and EPDM types will work, but unless intended for high temperature and exterior applications, they will eventually become hard and brittle СКАЧАТЬ