Название: Spike Island: The Memory of a Military Hospital
Автор: Philip Hoare
Издательство: HarperCollins
Жанр: Историческая литература
isbn: 9780007394586
isbn:
Yet as Cobbett may have suspected, the threat to that idyll was irrevocable; it had been for some time. In Chamberlayne’s grounds, in the wooded valley which continued from Church Path through his parkland and down to the sea, was Walter Taylor’s mill, a modern, industrialised version of the windmill which stood above it on the hill, its site now surmounted by a stone obelisk. Established in 1762 and powered by the water from Miller’s Pond, there had been a mill here since at least the fourteenth century. Now a new machine had been installed, a circular saw invented by Taylor for cutting ships’ blocks out of hard lignum vitae imported from the West Indies and South America. It was a significant marker in the Industrial Revolution and Britain’s expanding empire: here, in this damp valley where kids now chuck empty Coke cans, the rigging for HMS Victory was made.
Chamberlayne’s estate dominated the peninsula, the ruler of Spike Island in all but title, and Cobbett’s description read like the literary equivalent of a nineteeth-century watercolour:
To those who like water scenes (as nineteen-twentieths of people do) it is the prettiest spot, I believe, in all England … The views from this place are the most beautiful that can be imagined. You see up the water and down the water, to Redbridge one way and out to Spithead the other way. Through the trees, to the right, you see the spires of Southampton, and you have only to walk a mile, over a beautiful lawn and through a not less beautiful wood, to find, in a little dell, surrounded with lofty woods, the venerable ruins … which make part of Mr. Chamberlayne’s estate …
Those venerable ruins represented the old England; a fantasy which would inspire a new cult – that of the gothic. Set back from the sea like a series of theatrical flats behind the green drapery of trees, the medieval remains of Netley Abbey might have been designed as a piece of stage scenery by William Kent, the gothic taste-maker who once planted a dead tree in Kensington Gardens. It was a place which had ever been wreathed in a sense of its own mystery. Throughout its history, it seems, this wooded site had a gloomy, perhaps even a terrible charm.
‘Netley Abbey ought, it seems, to be called Letley Abbey’, wrote Cobbett, ‘the Latin name being Laetus Locus, or Pleasant Place. Letley was made up of an abbreviation of the Laetus and of the Saxon word ley, which meant place, field, or piece of ground.’ But like Spike Island, the provenance of Netley’s name was disputed, its very identity surrounded in myth. Some writers considered Laetus Locus a play on the name of Letelie, which was already recorded in the Domesday Book; others believed that it originated from ‘Natan-leaga, or Leas of Naté, a wooded district extending from the Avon to the Test and Itchen’. Yet other sources attribute another old English meaning to the name: lonely, or desolate place.
For thousands of years these river valleys had been used as routes into England’s interior, through primeval forest with its wild boar, bear and wolves, and into the uplands; Bronze Age axes and tumuli have been found in Sholing’s heathland. When the Romans came, they set up their military base and strategic port of Clausentum on a bend in the River Itchen, building a tall lighthouse to make plain their dominion. Half a millennium later it would crumble with the rest of their empire in the Dark Ages. When in turn the Saxons built their settlements, Hamwih and Hamtun, on the opposite bank, they would merge to become Suthhamtun, and give their name to the county, Hamtunscire.
In the Viking raids of the ninth and tenth centuries, the inhabitants would retreat behind the remaining Roman walls; those that did not were slain, enslaved, or, in the coy words of one nineteenth-century historian, used by the invaders ‘to satisfy their insatiable cupidity’. Medieval Southampton learned from such lessons, building defences to the north and east, yet leaving the waterside disastrously open to attack. One Sunday morning in 1338, while most of Southampton was at Mass, a fleet of fifty galleys ‘crowded with Normans, Picards, Genoese, and Spaniards’ sailed up the water to launch an ungodly assault. Many died as they came out of St Michael’s Church, clubbed or stabbed on the threshold of their place of worship; others were hanged in their own houses. The invaders took arrogant leisure in their destruction and stayed overnight to burn, rape, pillage and plunder – a fatal mistake, as by that time the King’s men had arrived to drive them back to their ships, killing 300 in the process. Their leader, Carlo Grimaldi, however, escaped to the Mediterranean, where he used the spoils to establish his Monte Carlo principality.
Netley, meanwhile, remained on the sidelines of these events, looking on as its neighbour suffered successive invasions. Set in its woods, the place kept to itself. This uncanny sense of timelessness was marked by the Seaweed Hut which once stood on Weston Shore. A weird dome of worm-eaten wood, draped with turf and seaweed like a maritime haystack of flotsam heaped up on the beach, it was described by the Victoria History of Hampshire in 1903 ‘to be of considerable antiquity’ and celebrated on Edwardian postcards as a local curiosity. Some claimed it was a fishermen’s lookout, shelter and store, or perhaps an old ferry shelter, but to me it resembled nothing so much as a tribal hut.
As children we used to creep inside, the sky showing through the gaps in its roof, the interior dark and damp and smelling of salt and seaweed. I imagined it tenanted by a Father Neptune figure, holding court and garbed in kelp like a sea voyager crossing the Equator, half-hermit, half-warlock. Even to the end, the hut retained its secrets: crumbling and weather-beaten, when it finally fell apart in the 1960s its age was unknown. Roman coins had been discovered in the field behind; perhaps the hut was there to witness the imperial arrivals in their shiny helmets and red tunics, subjugating the natives and their shamanistic rites in the woods. Perhaps it was a Celtic temple, there when Christian missionaries first arrived to battle with the pagan gods of the forest. But whatever dark spirits had occupied this gravelly shore, they were to be firmly supplanted by a new invasion.
Like the old religion, the order of the Cistercians was born in a wood, founded in the Burgundian forest of Cîteaux as a more austere version of the Benedictines. In the late twelfth century the monks crossed the Channel to establish houses in England and, encouraged by King John, founded an abbey at Beaulieu in the New Forest in 1204. Soon after, the Bishop of Winchester commissioned the Cistercian abbots to investigate the site at Netley, and on 25 July 1239, an advance party arrived from Beaulieu, sent from the beautiful place to the sad place across the water – a journey still made by fallow deer, only to be felled by poachers, an ill-return for these animal asylum-seekers.
Cut off as it was by dense woodland from the interior, with the sea the only practicable means of access, it was Netley’s isolation which attracted the ascetic Cistercians. Their order characteristically sought sites ‘of horror – a vast wilderness’, ‘far from the concourse of men’, as they had at Fountains Abbey on the Yorkshire moors. They would go to great lengths in their search for ‘lonely, wooded places’: if the chosen site wasn’t empty enough then, like later landowners, they made it so, evicting the resident population and levelling cottages. As Walter Map, Archdeacon of Oxford, noted, ‘they make a solitude that they may be solitaries’.
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