Elly Pear’s Let’s Eat: Simple, Delicious Food for Everyone, Every Day. Elly Curshen

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      ½–1 garlic clove, peeled and grated or crushed

      flaked sea salt

      If you are going for the homemade aïoli, start with this. Make sure all the ingredients are at room temperature first. Place a damp tea towel beneath a bowl and put in the egg yolk. Beat well with a balloon whisk for a couple of minutes. Add a generous pinch of sea salt and beat well for another 30 seconds. Pour in the oil drop by drop, whisking continuously. This stage should take about 10 minutes in total. You really mustn’t rush it otherwise the mayonnaise will split. However, if it does split, a tiny splash (half a teaspoon, max) of ice-cold water does miracles in bringing it back to life. Once the aïoli is thick and glossy and the consistency is to your liking (you might not end up using all of the oil), add the lemon juice, mustard powder and garlic, mix well and keep to one side.

      Reheat the 2 portions of stew in a saucepan over a medium-low heat until piping hot, stirring occasionally. To cook the fish, heat a glug of olive oil in a frying pan over a high heat. Pat the fish dry and make 2mm-deep slashes into the skin 2–3 times, then sprinkle with salt. Carefully lay the fillets in the hot pan, skin-side down, and press down with a spatula for about 30 seconds. Release and leave to cook for 3–5 minutes until the skin is crisp. Do not move the fish during this time.

      Carefully flip over and cook for a further 2–5 minutes, depending on thickness. To check the fish is cooked, poke a small, sharp knife into the thickest part of the fish – it should go in easily and feel hot to the touch. Throw the sage leaves into the frying pan to crisp up during the last 30 seconds. Pour the hot stew into shallow bowls, top with the fish, a dollop of aïoli and sprinkle with the crispy sage.

      You can make the aïoli in advance; it will keep for 3 days covered in the fridge. Try splitting the mayo batch in half, then adding garlic to one half and herbs to the other. Tarragon works really well for this.