Gordon Ramsay’s Great British Pub Food. Gordon Ramsay

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      Dab off the beads of moisture with kitchen paper, then cut the skin into neat strips, about 1cm wide and 10cm long. Heat the oil in a deep-fryer or a heavy-based pan until it reaches about 120°C; the pan should be no more than half-full. Fry the skin strips in batches for about 8-9 minutes until they are cooked through and firm. Remove and drain.

      

      Increase the heat and bring the oil to 195-200°C. Re-fry the pork skins in batches for another 2-3 minutes until they are golden brown and crisp; the skins may curl and bubble as they fry. Remove and drain on a tray lined with kitchen paper. The skins will continue to crisp up as they cool. When completely cooled, store in an airtight container unless you are serving the pork scratchings straight away.

      Angels and devils

      on horseback

      SERVES 4

      ANGELS

      12 fresh native oysters

      freshly ground white pepper

      6 smoked streaky bacon rashers, derinded and halved lengthways

      olive oil, to drizzle

      DEVILS

      12 soft d’Agen prunes

      6 unsmoked streaky bacon rashers, derinded and halved lengthways

      

      These used to be offered on many bar menus, but you’re more likely these days to find them served as canapés, or in the case of devils on horseback, with roast chicken, perhaps. A cinch to make, they are particularly appetizing with a cold lager or glass of white wine.

      

      Preheat the grill to the highest setting and pre-soak 24 cocktail sticks in warm water (to prevent scorching under the grill).

      

      For the angels, shuck the oysters (for technique, see page 16) and strain off the juices. (Save these to add to a fish soup or sauce.) Sprinkle each oyster lightly with white pepper and wrap in a piece of bacon. Fix securely with a cocktail stick. Place on a baking sheet, leaving a little space between each one, and drizzle over a little olive oil. Grill for about 3 minutes on each side, until the bacon is brown and crisp on top. Serve at once, or keep warm in a low oven while you make the devils.

      

      For the devils, wrap each prune with a piece of bacon and cook in the same way as the angels. Serve piping hot.

      Pan haggerty

      SERVES 4

      600g firm, waxy potatoes, such as Desirée

      3 large onions

      100g strong cheddar

      1½ tbsp olive oil

      20g butter, melted

      sea salt and black pepper

      

      A pan haggerty consists of potatoes, onions and cheese – simple, comforting flavours you’d expect from a local bar. For a more intense flavour, use dripping from the weekend roast in place of butter. We also use gutsy, mature cheese, such as Montgomery or Westcombe cheddar from Somerset.

      

      Peel and thinly slice the potatoes and onions, preferably using a mandoline for the potatoes. Coarsely grate the cheese and set aside.

      

      Preheat the oven to 190°C/Gas 5. Heat the olive oil in a fairly small, ovenproof frying pan, about 20cm in diameter. Add the onions and sweat, stirring frequently, for 6-8 minutes until just softened. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.

      

      Arrange a layer of potatoes over the base of the pan. Brush with some melted butter and season lightly with salt and pepper, then scatter over a thin layer of onions and cheese. Repeat layering the ingredients, making sure that you end up with a layer of cheese-topped potatoes.

      

      Put the pan over a medium-high heat and cook for 2-3 minutes until the bottom layer of potatoes is golden brown. Transfer the pan to the oven and bake for 25-30 minutes, until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a small, sharp knife. The cheese topping should be golden; if not, increase the heat to 220°C/Gas 7 and bake for an extra 5 minutes or so.

      

      Leave the pan haggerty to cool slightly for 5 minutes or so. Carefully slide it onto a warm plate, cut into slices and serve.

      Old-fashioned pork pies

      MAKES 8

      HOT WATER CRUST PASTRY

      250g plain flour

      ½ tsp fine sea salt

      1 large egg

      50g unsalted butter

      50g lard

      85ml water

      1 medium egg yolk, lightly beaten with 1 tbsp water, to glaze

      FILLING

      400g minced pork (roughly equal quantities of belly and shoulder meat)

      250g sausagemeat

      1 tbsp chopped parsley

      1 tbsp chopped sage finely grated zest of 1 lemon

      5 juniper berries, ground with a pinch of salt

      pinch of allspice

      sea salt and black pepper

      

      Enjoy these adorable little pies warm or cold with piccalilli or pickled onions and a pint of ale.

      

      To make the pastry, sift the flour and salt into a large bowl and make a well in the middle. Crack the egg into the well and sprinkle over some of the flour. Put the butter, lard and water into a small pan and heat gently until melted, then bring to the boil. Immediately pour around the edge of the flour and quickly stir together, using a butter knife, to combine. Knead the dough lightly until smooth; it will be quite soft at this stage. Wrap in cling film and chill for at least an hour until firm.

      

      Meanwhile, for the filling, mix all the ingredients together, seasoning well. Divide into 8 portions, about 80g each, and roll into balls. Cut off one-third of the pastry for the pie lids, re-wrap and chill. Roll out the remaining pastry on a lightly floured СКАЧАТЬ