The White Spider. Heinrich Harrer

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Copyright

      William Collins

      An imprint of HarperCollinsPublishers Ltd. 1 London Bridge Street London SE1 9GF

       www.harpercollins.co.uk

      This edition published by Harper Perennial 2005

      Previously published in paperback by Flamingo 1995

       Previously published in paperback by Paladin 1989

      First published in Great Britain by Rupert Hart-Davis Ltd 1959

      Revised edition 1965 Second revised edition published by Granada Publishing 1976

      Copyright © Heinrich Harrer 1958, 1964

       This translation copyright © Rupert Hart-Davis Ltd 1959 Introduction copyright © Joe Simpson 2005 PS section copyright © Miranda Haines 2005

      PS™ is a trademark of HarperCollinsPublishers Ltd.

      Heinrich Harrer asserts the moral right to be identified as the author of this work

       A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

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      Source ISBN: 9780007197842

      Ebook Edition © SEPTEMBER 2010 ISBN: 9780007347575

      Version: 2017-04-27

      Contents

       Title page

Copyright

Introduction

Map

“Come back safe, my friends”

The “White Spider”

The First Attempt on the North Face

The Tragedy of Toni Kurz

1937 on the Eiger

The First Ascent of the Face

       Further Successful Ascents

       1952: The Great Year on the Eiger

       The Wall of Life and Death

       The Tragedy of 1957

       The International Rescue Team

       Epilogue

       Fate made the Amendments

       Four Shirts and an Overcoat

       Ascendancy of the Armchair

       The Silver Trench

       Climbers have a Language of their own

       “I am sorry, Brian …”

       July 31st: Start and Finish

       The Mass Assault

       The Year of Chivalry

       Man, the Deciding Factor

       Route Guide to the North Face

       Attempts and Successes on the North Face

       Keep Reading