The French Menu Cookbook: The Food and Wine of France - Season by Delicious Season. Richard Olney

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СКАЧАТЬ the leaves also have a stronger and more characteristic perfume. The year’s provision is best made at this time.

      2. Oregano must be collected when in full flower (July and August). It may be bought in dried bouquets from Italian grocers and, in this form, is always fresher and more fragrant than that found in jars or cans.

      3. Perennial savory has a more pungent but finer flavor than the annual variety, which, although useful in the absence of the former, has a vague suggestion of kerosene to its scent.

      4. Rosemary is always powerful and may be collected at all times of the year. Although delicious, it should be used with circumspection. Curiously, the smoke of burning or smoldering rosemary is a far more voluptuous and delicate incense than that of any other herb. Any fish, meat, fowl, or vegetable grilled over coals is enhanced if, during the last few moments of the grilling process, a small handful of rosemary leaves is sprinkled over the coals.

      A jar of mixed herbs of one’s own confection (for not only does one not know what is contained in the commercial mixtures, but they are always too old, with the result that they lend only a vague, powdery, peppery quality) is practical. Nearly all recipes that call for a complicated dosage of several different herbs are happily supplied by a single pinch of the mixture. The mixed herbs should be dry, but as nearly as possible of the year’s production. Do not be tempted by the miraculous blender to reduce your mixture to powder—the flavor will very rapidly be lost. For those recipes that require a pinch of powdered herbs, it is much the best to pound them in a mortar at the last minute.

       Mixed Herbs

      1 heaping tablespoon savory

      1 heaping tablespoon thyme

      1 heaping tablespoon oregano

      1 teaspoon finely crumbled rosemary

      1 bay leaf, finely crumbled

      Cultivated marjoram may, by all means, be added and, if one likes, a couple of leaves each of sage and dried mint, crumbled finely. Store in a small tightly closed jar.

      KITCHEN GARDENS

      A garden can alter the entire aspect of one’s kitchen and table. Even without a garden, most herbs can still be raised in pots or window boxes, but with a few square yards of garden space, one can plant such hard-to-find and easy-to-grow things as chervil (in French, cerfeuil). For constant production it should be planted every two or three weeks from early spring to early fall—in a shady corner at the hottest part of the season. Sorrel (French, oseille) requires no particular care or special soil, and with a bit of protection during the winter, will produce all year round for four or five years. Wild fennel (fenouil) is another good garden possibility, as are all the semi-wild salads: rocket (roquette), lamb’s lettuce (mâche), burnet (pimprenelle), purslane (pourpier à salade), basil (basilic), borage (bourrache) and many others. In France, seed packages of mixed wild salads (mesclun) are commonly sold. In the list of useful addresses I have given the name of a French seed house that mail-orders to America.

      If space allows, a few artichoke plants (the violet variety, if pos-sible) will permit the discovery of the marvelous raw artichoke, eaten with a vinaigrette at a tender young age before the choke is even de-veloped. Other useful plants are the common gray shallots (échalotes grises)—I have substituted onions for shallots in most recipes in this book, for the only shallot that I have ever found on the American market is the ugly, coarse-flavored red shallot. Also useful are leeks (poireaux), and broad beans (fèves)—one of the most exquisite of all vegetables, hard to find and nearly always too mature when offered for sale. To import the seeds, a customs permit is necessary. And, of course, there are green beans, which are never picked young enough and never sold fresh enough. Nasturtiums will grow anywhere with no care, and the flowers are as pretty as they are useful in salads. A rich soil will produce too much foliage and few flowers.

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