Orchids For Dummies. Steven A. Frowine

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       Know the environment you have to offer your orchids and match this with the orchids that fit. See Chapter 5 for more information on your growing environment.

       If necessary, modify your growing area to help your orchids perform to their best. Chapter 5 also addresses this.

       For orchids such as some of the dendrobiums, cattleya species, and deciduous orchids, like the catasetums, this is a time of rest, so you’ll want to reduce your watering.

       Keep the humidity high with good air movement.

       If you’re using well water, warm it to room temperature before using it on your orchid plants. Ice-cold water can cause forming buds to drop and may stunt new growth.

       Don’t put your orchids too close to the windowpanes or the leaves could be damaged by the cold.

       Apply little fertilizer. The orchids won’t need it. In fact, if you apply too much fertilizer at this time, the excess slats in the unused fertilizer can damage orchid roots.

       Toward the end of this month, increased light may mean you have to be careful with your orchids that require less light, like the slippers and moth orchids, so they don’t get burned.

       More of your orchids will be showing buds and some, especially some of the moth and slipper orchids and some of the oncidiums, should be blooming.

       Don’t overcrowd your plants. Make sure they receive as much light as possible.

       Provide good air circulation to prevent disease problems.

       Stake your cymbidiums, which should be spiking now.

       Don’t forget to keep your miltonias and miltoniopsis damp.

       If you’re growing under lights, take note of when you last changed your bulbs. Fluorescent lamps can lose up to 40 percent of their light output after several months of use. Because new growth is starting on orchids, this is a good time to change the lamps so the plants will receive the most light possible.

       Apply very little fertilizer during this month.

       Be careful that the increased sunlight doesn’t heat up your greenhouse or windowsill too much. Apply shading if necessary.

       The increased light and warmth of this month means an acceleration of growth. Sprouting new roots should be more evident.

       This is the beginning of the show for many orchids. Many cattleyas, moth orchids, slipper orchids, and oncidiums will be starting to bloom.

       As the days get brighter and warmer, you can resume your regular fertilizing schedule.

       March and April are prime times to check out orchid shows in your area.

       You’ll probably have to increase the frequency of your watering because of the new plant growth.

       As soon as you see new roots emerging in cattleyas, repot. Do it before the roots grow a few inches (5 cm) long.

       Many other orchids showing new growth can also be repotted at this time.

       Be on the lookout for bugs. The warmer temperatures cause them to hatch.

       Dormant orchids should be showing new growth now so you can resume your regular watering schedule.

       If you didn’t apply shading on your greenhouse last month, it may be needed now.

       A gauze curtain may be needed to soften the light for orchids growing in a south window.

       Check out orchid shows in your area.

       More frequent watering and fertilizing is needed.

       If you’re in a northern climate, move some plants to a shaded, protected spot outdoors by the end of this month, but be careful not to do this too quickly. Orchids that prefer it warm, like moth orchids, don’t appreciate being too chilled at night, not below around 65°F (18°C).

       Increase your ventilation to remove excess hot air and prevent fungal disease spotting on the flowers.

       May is usually an opportune time to repot your orchids because they should be in active growth now. Attend to this right after they’ve flowered.

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