Bill O'Connor is an internationally qualified (IFMGA) mountain and ski guide based in the Lake district. That said he spends up to eight months of the year abroad – at least three of which are spent off-piste skiing and touring in the Alps. A former Head of Outdoor Education at both Marlborough College and Loughborough University, he has spent the last twenty-five years guiding in Britain, Europe and the Greater Ranges.

Bill is a member of the Alpine Club, Alpine Climbing Group, Alpine Ski Club and a Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society. When not out there doing it he lectures, contributes articles and photographs to most of the leading outdoor publications in the UK and abroad and runs his photographic library. He has contributed to numerous publications on mountaineering and has written several acclaimed books including an Alpine Guidebook to Mt Blanc, a book of Scrambles in the Lake District and two volumes on Nepal, including the The Trekking Peaks Of Nepal.

He lives in Cumbria with Sallie, his wife, and two sons, William and Cameron, who are also passionate about ski mountaineering. For more information about his guiding, writing and photography check out his web site on: www.oconnoradventure.com

Reprinted 2008, 2016

ISBN-13: 978 1 85284 374 8

ISBN-10: 1 85284 374 8

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Photos by the author, except where otherwise credited.

Dedication

To Sallie Louise

Acknowledgements

This guidebook is the product of more than three decades of enjoyment and good company in the mountains. To all those that have been my companions on these marvellous journeys I give a heartfelt thanks. Special mention has to be made of Sallie O'Connor, who has not only been my willing partner in the hills but has also had to put up with me pouring over maps, pictures and guidebooks at home during the writing of these volumes.

Special thanks to Kathy Duval for help with translations. To Stifel Reto in Switzerland and Toni Spirig, the imaginative architect from Celerina not only for the award-winning Kesch Hut but also for use of the photographs on pp.158 and 159. To mountain guide Hugh Clarke of Villars for his critique of the Western Bernese Alps tour. To numerous friends who contributed their splendid photographs when my own proved inadequate. They are: Steven Spieczny; John Cleare (mountaincamera.com); Rob Collister; David Udberg of the Mountain Boot Company; Rosmarie and Christian Bleuer, the hospitable guardians of the Konkordia Hut; Roger Payne and Julie Ann Clyma; and finally Stewart Mackenzie.

Finally, I must thank the team at Cicerone for their hard work, and particularly Jonathan Williams for letting me realise my long-held ambition to produce guidebooks on Alpine ski mountaineering in English.

Warning

Mountaineering can be a dangerous activity carrying a risk of personal injury or death. It should be undertaken only by those with a full understanding of the risks and with the training and experience to evaluate them. Mountaineers should be appropriately equipped for the routes undertaken. Whilst every care and effort has been taken in the preparation of this guide, the user should be aware that conditions, especially in winter, can be highly variable and can change quickly. Holds may become loose or fall off, rockfall can affect the character of a route, snow and avalanche conditions must be carefully considered. These can materially affect the seriousness of a climb, tour or expedition.

Therefore, except for any liability which cannot be excluded by law, neither Cicerone nor the author accepts liability for damage of any nature (including damage to property, personal injury or death) arising directly or indirectly from the information in this guide.

Advice to Readers

Readers are advised that while every effort is taken by the author to ensure the accuracy of this guidebook, changes can occur which may affect the contents. Glacier routes may change, and snow conditions influence which is the safest route. It is also advisable to check locally on transport, accommodation, shops, etc.

We are always grateful for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to [email protected] or by post to Cicerone, 2 Police Square, Milnthorpe LA7 7PY, United Kingdom.

CONTENTS

The Alpine Hut System

Avalanche Awareness

Avalanche Accidents

Helicopter Rescue

A Safety Strategy for Ski Mountaineering