Название: Breakfast is a Dangerous Meal: Why You Should Ditch Your Morning Meal For Health and Wellbeing
Автор: Terence Kealey
Издательство: HarperCollins
Жанр: Кулинария
isbn: 9780008172350
isbn:
The first free school breakfasts were served by the School Funds Societies in Paris in 1867, and by 1890 a free breakfast programme in Birmingham, England, was providing children with ‘a substantial hunk of bread and a cup of warm milk’ before the first class. By the 1920s Norwegian schoolchildren were enjoying the Oslo Breakfast of rye biscuit, brown bread, butter or margarine fortified with vitamins, whey cheese, cod liver oil paste, a generous bottle of milk, raw carrot, an apple and half an orange, and by the twenties such government largesse was becoming typical throughout Europe.
The USA, though, remained committed to laissez-faire, private philanthropy and states’ rights, and these seem to have worked well: ‘as early as 1905 charitable religious foundations began offering free breakfasts in churches to needy schoolchildren.’6 The inspirer of these initiatives was the journalist Albert Shaw, who in 1891 claimed with no evidence that ‘to drive children into school to fill their heads when they have nothing in their stomachs is like pouring water into a sieve.’7 The federal government eventually sought permanent congressional authorisation for its School Breakfast Program only as late as 1975, not because the contemporary providers had failed but, rather, because their actions – and one initiative in particular – had proved too successful.
By 1970, though it had been launched only two years earlier, the Black Panther Party’s ‘Free Children’s Breakfast Program’ was feeding thousands of African-American children in church kitchens. It was also using those breakfasts to teach the Panthers’ view of black history. As Huey Newton and Nik Heynen have argued, it was not its militancy but, rather, the success of its breakfast-time educational programmes that led J. Edgar Hoover to declare that ‘the Black Panther Party, without question, represents the greatest threat to the internal security of the country.’8 To crowd out the party’s educational programmes, the federal government understood it first had to crowd out its free eggs, bacon, grits, toast and orange juice.
Myth No. 3: Breakfast is slimming
Pundit after pundit asserts that breakfast produces satiety (from the Latin satis, enough). Breakfast, it is claimed, fills people’s stomachs and raises their blood sugar levels so they eat less at subsequent meals. Is this true?
There are of course peer-reviewed scientific papers that make such assertions, and a man who has written many of them is Dr John de Castro, a Texas psychologist, who in 2004 wrote: ‘we found that when individual subjects ate a larger than mean proportion of their total intake in the morning, they ate significantly less over the entire day.’1 Which apparently means that the more someone eats at breakfast, the less they eat during the rest of the day. De Castro attributed this to satiety. Here is his model:
Eat breakfast → satiety → eat less at lunch → lose weight
This is a powerful model, which at first sight seems to make sense. But most scientists find the exact opposite. In a recent study David Levitsky and Carly Pacanowski of Cornell University, New York, showed that when subjects were provided with light breakfasts (approx. 350 calories) their intake at lunch was completely unchanged: i.e. those 350 breakfast calories did not cause a compensatory fall in lunch calories, so on eating breakfast their daily intake went up by 350 calories. Moreover, when the subjects ate full breakfasts of around 624 calories, they reduced their lunch calories by only about 144 calories, causing a net increase of 480 calories a day.2 No wonder Levitsky and Pacanowski concluded that ‘skipping breakfast may be an effective means to reduce energy intake.’ The Levitsky and Pacanowski model is, therefore:
Skip breakfast → consume less food → reduce energy intake
or vice versa
Eat breakfast → consume more food → increase energy intake
And what made Levitsky and Pacanowski’s study so significant is that they showed that ‘these data are consistent with published literature.’ That is to say there is widespread agreement that de Castro’s satiety hypothesis is wrong and that eating breakfast increases energy intake.
Indeed, an overview of forty-seven of the most authoritative breakfast studies performed between 1952 and 2003 confirmed that around 20 per cent of children and adults skip breakfast, and that ‘breakfast eaters generally consumed more daily calories.’3 So, contrary to myth, eating breakfast piles on the calories. How then do we account for de Castro’s finding that ‘when individual subjects ate a larger than mean proportion of their total intake in the morning, they ate significantly less over the entire day’?
Dramatically, Dr Volker Schusdziarra and his colleagues from the obesity clinic at the Technical University of Munich in Germany dismiss de Castro’s breakfast conclusions as a statistical illusion.4 On studying a cohort of subjects, Dr Schusdziarra found that, left to their own devices, people tend to eat fairly consistently in the mornings (i.e. breakfast is a relatively fixed-sized meal, because it is a habit) but people tend to eat inconsistently later in the day: on some days (for whatever reason – Aunt Flo’s birthday party, a celebratory restaurant meal) people will eat more at lunch and dinner, whereas on other days (for whatever reason – not feeling well, being rushed at work) people will eat less at lunch and dinner.
Yet because the intake at breakfast is reasonably fixed, on the days that people ate large lunches and dinners, the proportion of their food intake from breakfast was small, while on the days they ate small lunches and dinners, the proportion of their food intake from breakfast was large. So it looks as if:
small breakfasts → large overall food intake
And
large breakfasts → small overall food intake
But these are illusions based on the greater variability of consumption at lunch and dinner, and the real model is:
large intake at lunch and dinner → breakfasts correspondingly small, relatively
And
small intake at lunch and dinner → breakfasts correspondingly large, relatively
Schusdziarra was rightly respectful of de Castro’s data; it was only his interpretation he challenged. And this, as will be seen, is the theme of this book: the accumulated breakfast data of literally hundreds of scientists is almost always sound (it’s amazing how much breakfast research has been performed), but the findings have been systematically misinterpreted.
Satiety and social eating
Satiety can of course be real. Children up to the age of 3 will eat only in response to satiety signals, but СКАЧАТЬ