Slowly Down the Ganges. Eric Newby

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       Epigraph

      ‘The Ganga has been a symbol of India’s age-long culture and civilisation, ever-changing, ever-flowing, and yet ever the same Ganga. She reminds me of the Himalayas, snow-covered peaks and the deep valleys which I have loved so much, and of the rich and vast plains below where my life and work have been cast.’

      Jawaharlal Nehru

      ‘Here I asked repeatedly, and received a different account … Perhaps these particulars vary in different instances. At all events it is a proof how hard it is to gain, in this country, accurate information as to facts which seem most obvious to the senses.’

      Narrative of a Journey through the Upper Provinces of India Reginald Heber, D.D., Lord Bishop of Calcutta

       Contents

       Cover

       Title Page

Dedication

Epigraph

Maps

List of Illustrations

Introduction

1 Long ago on the Ganges

2 The first sight of the river

3 Life at Hardwar

4 Down the Ganges

5 Through the Bhabar

6 The way to the Balawali Bridge

       7 A short halt at a railway station

       8 An encounter with a bridgekeeper

       9 Terra firma

       10 A journey through Uttar Pradesh

       11 A place in the country

       12 From a carriage window

       13 Remembrance of things past

       14 Slow boat to Kanpur

       15 Christmas at Kanpur

       16 The Ganges at Prayag

       17 The way to Mirzapur

       18 The fort at Chunar

       19 A stay at Banaras

       20 The day of Makara Sankranti

       21 From Patna to Bankipore and back

       22 Cooking a Baffat

       23 The islands at Colganj

       24 Into the Bhagirathi

       25 Arrival at Calcutta

       26 Down to the sea

       Plates

       About the Author

       Praise

       Also by the Author

       Copyright

       About the Publisher

       Footnotes