What does the phrase ‘new classic’ mean when discussing food? To me, when talking of a ‘classic’ in cookery, I think of tradition, dishes that are tried and tested, or that represent a time or place, and have stood the test of time. The notion of a ‘new classic’ accepts that a shift has taken place, whether in taste, produce or technique, which means a new twist can be put on that dish. I want to share these recipes with you, to introduce you to new flavour combinations and cookery methods that you may not have used before. I also want to reveal my favourite dishes that are in the process of becoming classics – brilliant dishes that will become time-honoured themselves.

The ‘classics’ were exactly what I learnt at college in the 1980s. Dishes such as lobster Thermidor, sole bonne femme, béarnaise, lemon meringue pie, millefeuille, éclairs, croissants – the list goes on and on. The techniques involved in these recipes, such as emulsifying, braising, sauce-making and pastry skills, were the cornerstones of my training. Most of you will be familiar with a number of these dishes and would deem them as ‘classics’, but I would hazard a guess that you cook and eat them very rarely – some because of their heaviness or the lengthy work involved, and some just because they’re not to our modern tastes. This is what led me to write this book. I felt that, while classics will always have a firm place in any cuisine, new versions of the classics and new classics themselves deserve to come to the fore.

When I was a child, our family ate relatively simple food – generally meat and two veg, one of which was almost always a potato. As a family, we were not particularly adventurous and my siblings and I ate what was put in front of us. We all sat down together as a family to have our evening meal, though – always. My favourite dinner was roast leg of lamb with mint sauce and Jersey royals, followed by apple pie and cream. Fast-forward to today, and what my wife and children and I eat together is much more varied. We’ve always encouraged our children, and still do, to try new foods and flavours. These days you’re likely to find us eating chicken curry on a weeknight, and enjoy a pork chop with mustard sauce and tarragon on a Sunday. My children are very keen cooks themselves, which is of course actively encouraged!

Any good dish must start with great ingredients. It was in my father’s fruit and potato warehouse that I learnt the value of ingredients. I began to understand the difference between the flavour of unripe fruit and that of wonderfully vibrant, ripe produce. Selecting seasonal ingredients will ensure they are at their best. As I have always advocated in my cooking, ingredients are a key factor to success, so I have divided up the recipes by where we source our ingredients: the garden, the farm, the sea and the storecupboard.

FROM THE GARDEN

This chapter is something close to my heart – my father is the one to thank for my love of the humble vegetable. When sourcing ingredients, ripeness is key. Do not be afraid of over-ripeness, as this can often intensify flavour and sweetness. The Summer Vegetable Lasagne is my take on a great recipe for families, as it is a delicious way to get children to enjoy vegetables. Another СКАЧАТЬ

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